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Orange Tube Anemone
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How to Care for Orange Tube Anemone
written by Dave Burr
Unlike many other anemones, Tube Anemones do not host clownfish and do not move around the aquarium. Just bury their tube in the sand bed and they will stay there.
Tip: The Orange Tube Anemone has a long tube that should be buried in the substrate of your aquarium. Leave the open end of the tube, with the tentacles, sticking out of the substrate. It can be placed in a partially shaded area, or out in the open.
Sting: Although numerous tube anemones may be kept close together they can sting corals so make sure to leave space around them. Tube anemones can eat small fish, however this is quite rare. Fish know to stay away from them.
Placement: Create a trench in the sand bed and place the anemone in it. Cover the tube leaving only the open end of it protruding from the sand. You may place several Tube Anemones together as they do not sting each other.
Feeding: Feed marine snow, mysis shrimp, or chopped meaty foods and watch the tentacles grab the food.
Lighting & Flow Requirements: The Orange Tube Aneomne requires moderate water flow and moderate lighting (PAR 180-280). T5's, Metal Halides, or LED's can all maintain Long Tentacle Anemones when the proper PAR levels are provided. We recommend a 14-20K color spectrum for best coloration.
Care Level: Moderate
Lighting Requirements: Low to moderate (PAR 120-250)
Water Flow: Moderate
Aggressiveness: Semi-ggressive
Range: Indo-Pacific
Family: Cerianthidae
Water Conditions: 75-80° F; sg 1.024-1.026 (1.025 is ideal); pH 8.1-8.4 Ca 420-440 ppm, Alk 8-9.5 dKH, Mg 1260-1350, Nitrates <10ppm, Phosphates, < .10ppm
Water Chemistry: It is important that proper calcium (420-440 ppm), alkalinity (8-9.5 dkh - run it 7-8 if you are carbon dosing) , and magnesium levels (1260-1350 ppm) are maintained. Raising magnesium levels gradually up to 1400-1600 ppm can help to combat algae outbreaks, just keep CA and Alk in line as you raise the Mg. Nitrates should be below 10 ppm and phosphates should be below .10 ppm. We recommend doing a water change when Nitrate levels rise to 10 ppm. It is important to replace your phosphate media when phosphates rise to .10 ppm. Media Reactors make the most efficient use of your phosphate media by fluidizing it.
Dosing: Vivid Aquariums uses and recommends dosing pumps to automate the dosing of additives and keep your levels more constant. A dosing pump can alleviate the chore of manually dosing your aquarium with Ca, Alk, & Mg 2,3, or 4 times per week and will benefit your aquarium by keeping your levels constant through frequent small additions of Ca, Alk, & Mg. Our tanks all progressed when we switched from 3 manual dosings per week to 70 automatic dosings per week and we got a lot more work done.
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Blue Tip Sebae Anemone
Sold Out - $ 59.99
How to Care for Blue Tip Sebae Anemone
written by Dave Burr
The Blue Tip Sebae Anemone will host a wide variety of clownfish including, Maroon, Gold Maroon, and Bluestripe Clownfish.
Behavior: Keeping the anemone with a clownfish will help it acclimate faster since the clownfish will feed it scraps of food. The anemone can trap and eat other small fish. However, most fish know to stay away.
Sting: The Blue Tip Sebae Anemone has a potent sting that may harm other anemones or corals as it moves about the aquarium. Provide it with several areas where it can anchor its column in the substrate. Be ready to move corals out of its way if it should choose to anchor too close to them.
Tip: Do not try to move the anemone once anchored because its column, or foot, can be easily torn. Most anemones will die from a torn column.
Gloves: We recommend wearing gloves when handling Sebae Anemones. When placing the anemone try to support it from its slippery underside. Do not use tongs, and do not touch this anemone with bare hands.
Placement: Try creating an "Anemone Lagoon" using rocks to create three sides. Provide 3"-4" of sand for the Sebae Anemone to anchor its foot. Dig a hole in the sand, turn down the flow, and place the Sebae Anemone in the hole. Try to minimize handling and support it by its slippery foot as much as possible. Leave 3"-5" between the anemone and nearby corals.
Feeding: Feed large pieces of silverside, squid, shrimp, and other meaty foods several times a week. Use a feeder stick and touch the piece of food against the anemone. Its sticky tentacles will grab onto the food. Be careful not to poke the anemone.
Lighting & Flow Requirements: The Blue Tip Sebae Aneomne requires moderate water flow and moderate to high lighting (PAR 220-350). T5's, Metal Halides, or LED's can all maintain Sebae Anemones when the proper PAR levels are provided. We recommend a 14-20K color spectrum for best coloration.
Care Level: Difficult
Lighting Requirements: Moderate to high (PAR 220-350)
Water Flow: Moderate
Aggressiveness: Aggressive
Range: Indo-Pacific
Family: Stichodactylidae
Water Conditions: 75-80° F; sg 1.024-1.026 (1.025 is ideal); pH 8.1-8.4 Ca 420-440 ppm, Alk 8-9.5 dKH, Mg 1260-1350, Nitrates <10ppm, Phosphates, < .10ppm
Water Chemistry: It is important that proper calcium (420-440 ppm), alkalinity (8-9.5 dkh - run it 7-8 if you are carbon dosing) , and magnesium levels (1260-1350 ppm) are maintained. Raising magnesium levels gradually up to 1400-1600 ppm can help to combat algae outbreaks, just keep CA and Alk in line as you raise the Mg. Nitrates should be below 10 ppm and phosphates should be below .10 ppm. We recommend doing a water change when Nitrate levels rise to 10 ppm. It is important to replace your phosphate media when phosphates rise to .10 ppm. Media Reactors make the most efficient use of your phosphate media by fluidizing it.
Dosing: Vivid Aquariums uses and recommends dosing pumps to automate the dosing of additives and keep your levels more constant. A dosing pump can alleviate the chore of manually dosing your aquarium with Ca, Alk, & Mg 2,3, or 4 times per week and will benefit your aquarium by keeping your levels constant through frequent small additions of Ca, Alk, & Mg. Our tanks all progressed when we switched from 3 manual dosings per week to 70 automatic dosings per week and we got a lot more work done.
Bubble Tip Anemone
Sold Out - $ 49.99
How to Care for Bubble Tip Anemone
written by Dave Burr
Bubble Tip Anemones come in a variety of colors; mostly different shades of green. Rare red Bubble Tip Anemones are often called Rose Anemones. If you have never kept an anemone before, the Bubble Tip Anemone is your best choice. These beautiful anemones are much easier to keep than any other anemone we sell. Although all anemones can move around the aquarium, Bubble Tip Anemones seem to stay put much better than other anemones. They prefer to anchor their column, or foot, on the rock rather than the sand.
Behavior: The Bubble Tip Anemone will host a wide variety of clownfish including, Ocellaris, Percula, Maroon, and Gold Maroon Clownfish. Keeping the anemone with a clownfish will help it acclimate faster since the clownfish will feed it scraps of food.
Tip: Do not try to move the anemone once anchored because its column, or foot, can be easily torn. Most anemones will die from a torn column. Be prepared to move corals out of its way if it should choose to anchor too close to them.
Gloves: We recommend wearing gloves when handling Bubble Tip Anemones. When placing the anemone try to support it from its slippery underside. Do not use tongs, and do not touch this anemone with bare hands.
Placement: Turn down the flow and place the Bubble Tip Anemone in a crevice in the rock. After it has attached you may increase the flow again. Try to minimize handling and support it by its slippery foot as much as possible. Leave 3"-5" between the anemone and nearby corals. Remember that it may or may not choose to stay where you place it. If it moves to a different spot be prepared to move corals out of its way. It will not sting and kill corals instantly but they should be moved away within 12-24 hours. If a Bubble Tip Anemone anchors where you don't want it to try adjusting the direction of flow in the aquarium to cause it to release and re-attach elsewhere.
Feeding: Feed the Bubble Tip Anemone large pieces of silverside, squid, shrimp, and other meaty foods several times a week. Use a feeder stick and touch the piece of food against the Bubble Tip Anemone. Its sticky tentacles will grab onto the food. Be careful not to poke the anemone.
Lighting & Flow Requirements: The Bubble Tip Anemone requires moderate water flow and moderate to high lighting (PAR 220-350). T5's, Metal Halides, or LED's can all maintain Bubble Tip Anemones when the proper PAR levels are provided. We recommend a 14-20K color spectrum for best coloration.
Care Level: Difficult
Lighting Requirements: Moderate to high (PAR 220-350)
Water Flow: Moderate
Aggressiveness: Aggressive
Range: Fiji, Tonga, Indo-Pacific
Family: Actiniidae
Water Conditions: 75-80° F; sg 1.024-1.026 (1.025 is ideal); pH 8.1-8.4 Ca 420-440 ppm, Alk 8-9.5 dKH, Mg 1260-1350, Nitrates <10ppm, Phosphates, < .10ppm
Water Chemistry: It is important that proper calcium (420-440 ppm), alkalinity (8-9.5 dkh - run it 7-8 if you are carbon dosing) , and magnesium levels (1260-1350 ppm) are maintained. Raising magnesium levels gradually up to 1400-1600 ppm can help to combat algae outbreaks, just keep CA and Alk in line as you raise the Mg. Nitrates should be below 10 ppm and phosphates should be below .10 ppm. We recommend doing a water change when Nitrate levels rise to 10 ppm. It is important to replace your phosphate media when phosphates rise to .10 ppm. Media Reactors make the most efficient use of your phosphate media by fluidizing it.
Dosing: Vivid Aquariums uses and recommends dosing pumps to automate the dosing of additives and keep your levels more constant. A dosing pump can alleviate the chore of manually dosing your aquarium with Ca, Alk, & Mg 2,3, or 4 times per week and will benefit your aquarium by keeping your levels constant through frequent small additions of Ca, Alk, & Mg. Our tanks all progressed when we switched from 3 manual dosings per week to 70 automatic dosings per week and we got a lot more work done.
Long Tentacle Anemone
$ 49.99
How to Care for Long Tentacle Anemone
written by Dave Burr
Long Tentacle Anemones come in a variety of colors from white to green. The column is always a reddish orange color.
Behavior: The Long Tentacle Anemone will host a wide variety of clownfish including Maroon, Gold Maroon, Clarkii, Ocellaris, and Percula Clownfish. Keeping the anemone with a clownfish will help it acclimate faster since the clownfish will feed it scraps of food. Anemone can trap and eat other small fishes. However, most fish know to stay away.
Sting: The Long Tentacle Anemone has a potent sting that may harm other anemones or corals as it moves about the aquarium. Provide it with several areas where it can anchor its column in the substrate. Be ready to move corals out of its way if it should choose to anchor too close to them.
Tip: Do not try to move the anemone once anchored because its column, or foot, can be easily torn. Most anemones will die from a torn column.
Gloves: We recommend wearing gloves when handling Long Tentacle Anemones. When placing the anemone try to support it from its slippery underside. Do not use tongs, and do not touch this anemone with bare hands.
Placement: Try creating an "Anemone Lagoon" using rocks to create three sides. Provide 3"-4" of sand for the Long Tentacle Anemone to anchor its foot. Dig a hole in the sand, turn down the flow, and place the Long Tentacle Anemone in the hole. Try to minimize handling and support it by its slippery foot as much as possible. Leave 3"-5" between the anemone and nearby corals.
Feeding: Feed large pieces of silverside, squid, shrimp, and other meaty foods several times a week. Use a feeder stick and touch the piece of food against the anemone. Its sticky tentacles will grab onto the food. Be careful not to poke the anemone.
Lighting & Flow Requirements: The Long Tentacle Aneomne requires moderate water flow and moderate lighting (PAR 180-280). T5's, Metal Halides, or LED's can all maintain Long Tentacle Anemones when the proper PAR levels are provided. We recommend a 14-20K color spectrum for best coloration.
Care Level: Moderate
Lighting Requirements: Moderate (PAR 180-280)
Water Flow: Moderate
Aggressiveness: Aggressive
Range: Indo-Pacific
Family: Actiniidae
Water Conditions: 75-80° F; sg 1.024-1.026 (1.025 is ideal); pH 8.1-8.4 Ca 420-440 ppm, Alk 8-9.5 dKH, Mg 1260-1350, Nitrates <10ppm, Phosphates, < .10ppm
Water Chemistry: It is important that proper calcium (420-440 ppm), alkalinity (8-9.5 dkh - run it 7-8 if you are carbon dosing) , and magnesium levels (1260-1350 ppm) are maintained. Raising magnesium levels gradually up to 1400-1600 ppm can help to combat algae outbreaks, just keep CA and Alk in line as you raise the Mg. Nitrates should be below 10 ppm and phosphates should be below .10 ppm. We recommend doing a water change when Nitrate levels rise to 10 ppm. It is important to replace your phosphate media when phosphates rise to .10 ppm. Media Reactors make the most efficient use of your phosphate media by fluidizing it.
Dosing: Vivid Aquariums uses and recommends dosing pumps to automate the dosing of additives and keep your levels more constant. A dosing pump can alleviate the chore of manually dosing your aquarium with Ca, Alk, & Mg 2,3, or 4 times per week and will benefit your aquarium by keeping your levels constant through frequent small additions of Ca, Alk, & Mg. Our tanks all progressed when we switched from 3 manual dosings per week to 70 automatic dosings per week and we got a lot more work done.