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African Starfish
Sold Out - $ 49.99
How to Care for African Starfish
written by Dave Burr
A good choice for a peaceful community aquarium, but not for a reef aquarium. The African Starfish may eat corals, clams, sponges, anemones and ornamental invertebrates. It is one of the easier starfish to keep and can do very well in established aquariums when provided with live rock and live sand to forage through. Maintaining proper pH, Ca, Alk, & Mg levels is important for starfish.
Predators: Triggers and puffers may pick on African Starfish. More than one individual may be kept in larger aquariums of 80 gallons or more.
Feeding: Provide the African Starfish with bits of meaty foods such as chopped shrimp, clams, or silversides. It will also scavenge the aquarium for bits of food missed by the fish.
Acclimation: Take the time to do a drip acclimation with any starfish as they do not tolerate rapid changes in water chemistry very well.
Care Level: Moderate
Reef Compatible: Not good in reef aquariums
Diet: Carnivore
Range: Indonesia, Africa, Maldives
Family: Oreasteridae
Water Conditions: 75-80° F; sg 1.024-1.026 (1.025 is ideal); pH 8.1-8.4 Ca 420-440 ppm, Alk 8-9.5 dKH, Mg 1260-1350, Nitrates <10ppm, Phosphates < .10ppm
Water Chemistry: It is important that proper calcium (420-440 ppm), alkalinity (8-9.5 dkh - run it 7-8 if you are carbon dosing) , and magnesium levels (1260-1350 ppm) are maintained. Raising magnesium levels gradually up to 1400-1600 ppm can help to combat algae outbreaks, just keep CA and Alk in line as you raise the Mg. Nitrates should be below 10 ppm and phosphates should be below .10 ppm. We recommend doing a water change when Nitrate levels rise to 10 ppm. It is important to replace your phosphate media when phosphates rise to .10 ppm. Media Reactors make the most efficient use of your phosphate media by fluidizing it.
Dosing: Vivid Aquariums uses and recommends dosing pumps to automate the dosing of additives and keep your levels more constant. A dosing pump can alleviate the chore of manually dosing your aquarium with Ca, Alk, & Mg 2,3, or 4 times per week and will benefit your aquarium by keeping your levels constant through frequent small additions of Ca, Alk, & Mg. Our tanks all progressed when we switched from 3 manual dosings per week to 70 automatic dosings per week and we got a lot more work done.
Arrow Crab
$ 19.99
How to Care for Arrow Crab
written by Dave Burr
The Arrow Crab uses its very long legs to walk over the reef and to climb over almost any obstacle.
Behavior: It rarely bother corals, however the occasional large specimen may pick at small passive fishes. Some Arrow Crabs will eat troublesome bristle worms. Overall, a great reef inhabitant that can live for several years in the home aquarium.
Growth: Maintaining proper Ca, Alk, & Mg levels is important for growth of their shells.
Feeding: The Arrow Crab is a good scavenger and will eat scraps of meaty food missed by the fish.
Care Level: Easy
Reef Compatible: Yes - semi-aggressive as they mature
Diet: Carnivore
Range: Caribbean, Mexico
Family: Majidae
Water Conditions: 75-80° F; sg 1.024-1.026 (1.025 is ideal); pH 8.1-8.4 Ca 420-440 ppm, Alk 8-9.5 dKH, Mg 1260-1350, Nitrates <10ppm, Phosphates < .10ppm
Water Chemistry: It is important that proper calcium (420-440 ppm), alkalinity (8-9.5 dkh - run it 7-8 if you are carbon dosing) , and magnesium levels (1260-1350 ppm) are maintained. Raising magnesium levels gradually up to 1400-1600 ppm can help to combat algae outbreaks, just keep CA and Alk in line as you raise the Mg. Nitrates should be below 10 ppm and phosphates should be below .10 ppm. We recommend doing a water change when Nitrate levels rise to 10 ppm. It is important to replace your phosphate media when phosphates rise to .10 ppm. Media Reactors make the most efficient use of your phosphate media by fluidizing it.
Dosing: Vivid Aquariums uses and recommends dosing pumps to automate the dosing of additives and keep your levels more constant. A dosing pump can alleviate the chore of manually dosing your aquarium with Ca, Alk, & Mg 2,3, or 4 times per week and will benefit your aquarium by keeping your levels constant through frequent small additions of Ca, Alk, & Mg. Our tanks all progressed when we switched from 3 manual dosings per week to 70 automatic dosings per week and we got a lot more work done.
Astrea Snail
$ 2.99
How to Care for Astrea Snail
written by Dave Burr
Astrea Snails are very effective at controlling the growth of undesirable algae in aquariums. They are a good choice to combat cyanobacteria and diatom algae. Astrea Snails can even help to control nussiance hair algae. They will scavenge the rocks and aquarium glass.
Feeding: If no algae is present in the aquarium you may supplement the Astrea Snails diet with live macro algae or dried seaweed (nori).
Growth: Maintaining proper Ca, Alk, & Mg levels is important for growth of their shells.
Tip: Don't forget about your water parameters when combating algae blooms. Water chemistry is every bit as important as a good clean-up crew.
Care Level: Easy
Reef Compatible: Yes
Diet: Herbivore
Range: Circumtropical
Family: Astraeinae
Water Conditions: 75-80° F; sg 1.024-1.026 (1.025 is ideal); pH 8.1-8.4 Ca 420-440 ppm, Alk 8-9.5 dKH, Mg 1260-1350, Nitrates <10ppm, Phosphates, < .10ppm
Water Chemistry: It is important that proper calcium (420-440 ppm), alkalinity (8-9.5 dkh - run it 7-8 if you are carbon dosing) , and magnesium levels (1260-1350 ppm) are maintained. Raising magnesium levels gradually up to 1400-1600 ppm can help to combat algae outbreaks, just keep CA and Alk in line as you raise the Mg. Nitrates should be below 10 ppm and phosphates should be below .10 ppm. We recommend doing a water change when Nitrate levels rise to 10 ppm. It is important to replace your phosphate media when phosphates rise to .10 ppm. Media Reactors make the most efficient use of your phosphate media by fluidizing it.
Dosing: Vivid Aquariums uses and recommends dosing pumps to automate the dosing of additives and keep your levels more constant. A dosing pump can alleviate the chore of manually dosing your aquarium with Ca, Alk, & Mg 2,3, or 4 times per week and will benefit your aquarium by keeping your levels constant through frequent small additions of Ca, Alk, & Mg. Our tanks all progressed when we switched from 3 manual dosings per week to 70 automatic dosings per week and we got a lot more work done.
Black Longspine Urchin
$ 29.99
How to Care for Black Longspine Urchin
written by Dave Burr
The Black Longspine Urchin is especially useful in reef aquariums because it will eat unsightly Green Hair Algae.
Behavior: The Black Longspine Urchin is also useful for controlling algae in aquariums containing aggressive fish that may eat other invertebrates. They are nocturnal and spend the night grazing while the fish sleep. When they feel threatened by a fish they will actually point their spines at the fish to protect themselves.
Venom: The Black Longspine Urchin is venomous so be careful not to get poked. The sting is similar to a bee sting.
Feeding: If no algae is present in the aquarium you may supplement the Black Longspine urchin's diet with live macro algae and dried seaweed (nori).
Tip: Don't forget about your water parameters when combating algae blooms. Water chemistry is every bit as important as a good clean-up crew.
Care Level: Easy
Reef Compatible: Yes
Diet: Herbivore
Range: Indonesia, Fiji, Caribbean
Family: Diadematidae
Water Conditions: 75-80° F; sg 1.024-1.026 (1.025 is ideal); pH 8.1-8.4 Ca 420-440 ppm, Alk 8-9.5 dKH, Mg 1260-1350, Nitrates <10ppm, Phosphates < .10ppm
Water Chemistry: It is important that proper calcium (420-440 ppm), alkalinity (8-9.5 dkh - run it 7-8 if you are carbon dosing) , and magnesium levels (1260-1350 ppm) are maintained. Raising magnesium levels gradually up to 1400-1600 ppm can help to combat algae outbreaks, just keep CA and Alk in line as you raise the Mg. Nitrates should be below 10 ppm and phosphates should be below .10 ppm. We recommend doing a water change when Nitrate levels rise to 10 ppm. It is important to replace your phosphate media when phosphates rise to .10 ppm. Media Reactors make the most efficient use of your phosphate media by fluidizing it.
Dosing: Vivid Aquariums uses and recommends dosing pumps to automate the dosing of additives and keep your levels more constant. A dosing pump can alleviate the chore of manually dosing your aquarium with Ca, Alk, & Mg 2,3, or 4 times per week and will benefit your aquarium by keeping your levels constant through frequent small additions of Ca, Alk, & Mg. Our tanks all progressed when we switched from 3 manual dosings per week to 70 automatic dosings per week and we got a lot more work done.
Blue Tip Sebae Anemone
Sold Out - $ 59.99
How to Care for Blue Tip Sebae Anemone
written by Dave Burr
The Blue Tip Sebae Anemone will host a wide variety of clownfish including, Maroon, Gold Maroon, and Bluestripe Clownfish.
Behavior: Keeping the anemone with a clownfish will help it acclimate faster since the clownfish will feed it scraps of food. The anemone can trap and eat other small fish. However, most fish know to stay away.
Sting: The Blue Tip Sebae Anemone has a potent sting that may harm other anemones or corals as it moves about the aquarium. Provide it with several areas where it can anchor its column in the substrate. Be ready to move corals out of its way if it should choose to anchor too close to them.
Tip: Do not try to move the anemone once anchored because its column, or foot, can be easily torn. Most anemones will die from a torn column.
Gloves: We recommend wearing gloves when handling Sebae Anemones. When placing the anemone try to support it from its slippery underside. Do not use tongs, and do not touch this anemone with bare hands.
Placement: Try creating an "Anemone Lagoon" using rocks to create three sides. Provide 3"-4" of sand for the Sebae Anemone to anchor its foot. Dig a hole in the sand, turn down the flow, and place the Sebae Anemone in the hole. Try to minimize handling and support it by its slippery foot as much as possible. Leave 3"-5" between the anemone and nearby corals.
Feeding: Feed large pieces of silverside, squid, shrimp, and other meaty foods several times a week. Use a feeder stick and touch the piece of food against the anemone. Its sticky tentacles will grab onto the food. Be careful not to poke the anemone.
Lighting & Flow Requirements: The Blue Tip Sebae Aneomne requires moderate water flow and moderate to high lighting (PAR 220-350). T5's, Metal Halides, or LED's can all maintain Sebae Anemones when the proper PAR levels are provided. We recommend a 14-20K color spectrum for best coloration.
Care Level: Difficult
Lighting Requirements: Moderate to high (PAR 220-350)
Water Flow: Moderate
Aggressiveness: Aggressive
Range: Indo-Pacific
Family: Stichodactylidae
Water Conditions: 75-80° F; sg 1.024-1.026 (1.025 is ideal); pH 8.1-8.4 Ca 420-440 ppm, Alk 8-9.5 dKH, Mg 1260-1350, Nitrates <10ppm, Phosphates, < .10ppm
Water Chemistry: It is important that proper calcium (420-440 ppm), alkalinity (8-9.5 dkh - run it 7-8 if you are carbon dosing) , and magnesium levels (1260-1350 ppm) are maintained. Raising magnesium levels gradually up to 1400-1600 ppm can help to combat algae outbreaks, just keep CA and Alk in line as you raise the Mg. Nitrates should be below 10 ppm and phosphates should be below .10 ppm. We recommend doing a water change when Nitrate levels rise to 10 ppm. It is important to replace your phosphate media when phosphates rise to .10 ppm. Media Reactors make the most efficient use of your phosphate media by fluidizing it.
Dosing: Vivid Aquariums uses and recommends dosing pumps to automate the dosing of additives and keep your levels more constant. A dosing pump can alleviate the chore of manually dosing your aquarium with Ca, Alk, & Mg 2,3, or 4 times per week and will benefit your aquarium by keeping your levels constant through frequent small additions of Ca, Alk, & Mg. Our tanks all progressed when we switched from 3 manual dosings per week to 70 automatic dosings per week and we got a lot more work done.
Blue Tuxedo Urchin
Sold Out - $ 34.99
How to Care for Blue Tuxedo Urchin
written by Dave Burr
The Blue Tuxedo Urchin is especially useful in reef aquariums because it will eat unsightly Green Hair Algae. At the same time it is one of the more attractive urchins.
Behavior: The Blue Tuxedo Urchin is nocturnal and spends the night grazing while fish sleep. It will not hurt corals or invertebrates. The Blue Tuxedo Urchin will pick up bits of substrate, loose mushrooms or polyps, or scraps of algae and camouflage itself with them. This is a sign that it is happy and healthy.
Feeding: If no algae is present in the aquarium you may supplement the Blue Tuxedo Urchin's diet with live macro algae and dried seaweed (nori).
Tip: Don't forget about your water parameters when combating algae blooms. Water chemistry is every bit as important as a good clean-up crew.
Care Level: Easy
Reef Compatible: Yes
Diet: Herbivore
Range: Indo-Pacific
Family: Temnopleuridae
Water Conditions: 75-80° F; sg 1.024-1.026 (1.025 is ideal); pH 8.1-8.4 Ca 420-440 ppm, Alk 8-9.5 dKH, Mg 1260-1350, Nitrates <10ppm, Phosphates < .10ppm
Water Chemistry: It is important that proper calcium (420-440 ppm), alkalinity (8-9.5 dkh - run it 7-8 if you are carbon dosing) , and magnesium levels (1260-1350 ppm) are maintained. Raising magnesium levels gradually up to 1400-1600 ppm can help to combat algae outbreaks, just keep CA and Alk in line as you raise the Mg. Nitrates should be below 10 ppm and phosphates should be below .10 ppm. We recommend doing a water change when Nitrate levels rise to 10 ppm. It is important to replace your phosphate media when phosphates rise to .10 ppm. Media Reactors make the most efficient use of your phosphate media by fluidizing it.
Dosing: Vivid Aquariums uses and recommends dosing pumps to automate the dosing of additives and keep your levels more constant. A dosing pump can alleviate the chore of manually dosing your aquarium with Ca, Alk, & Mg 2,3, or 4 times per week and will benefit your aquarium by keeping your levels constant through frequent small additions of Ca, Alk, & Mg. Our tanks all progressed when we switched from 3 manual dosings per week to 70 automatic dosings per week and we got a lot more work done.
Bubble Tip Anemone
$ 49.99
How to Care for Bubble Tip Anemone
written by Dave Burr
Bubble Tip Anemones come in a variety of colors; mostly different shades of green. Rare red Bubble Tip Anemones are often called Rose Anemones. If you have never kept an anemone before, the Bubble Tip Anemone is your best choice. These beautiful anemones are much easier to keep than any other anemone we sell. Although all anemones can move around the aquarium, Bubble Tip Anemones seem to stay put much better than other anemones. They prefer to anchor their column, or foot, on the rock rather than the sand.
Behavior: The Bubble Tip Anemone will host a wide variety of clownfish including, Ocellaris, Percula, Maroon, and Gold Maroon Clownfish. Keeping the anemone with a clownfish will help it acclimate faster since the clownfish will feed it scraps of food.
Tip: Do not try to move the anemone once anchored because its column, or foot, can be easily torn. Most anemones will die from a torn column. Be prepared to move corals out of its way if it should choose to anchor too close to them.
Gloves: We recommend wearing gloves when handling Bubble Tip Anemones. When placing the anemone try to support it from its slippery underside. Do not use tongs, and do not touch this anemone with bare hands.
Placement: Turn down the flow and place the Bubble Tip Anemone in a crevice in the rock. After it has attached you may increase the flow again. Try to minimize handling and support it by its slippery foot as much as possible. Leave 3"-5" between the anemone and nearby corals. Remember that it may or may not choose to stay where you place it. If it moves to a different spot be prepared to move corals out of its way. It will not sting and kill corals instantly but they should be moved away within 12-24 hours. If a Bubble Tip Anemone anchors where you don't want it to try adjusting the direction of flow in the aquarium to cause it to release and re-attach elsewhere.
Feeding: Feed the Bubble Tip Anemone large pieces of silverside, squid, shrimp, and other meaty foods several times a week. Use a feeder stick and touch the piece of food against the Bubble Tip Anemone. Its sticky tentacles will grab onto the food. Be careful not to poke the anemone.
Lighting & Flow Requirements: The Bubble Tip Anemone requires moderate water flow and moderate to high lighting (PAR 220-350). T5's, Metal Halides, or LED's can all maintain Bubble Tip Anemones when the proper PAR levels are provided. We recommend a 14-20K color spectrum for best coloration.
Care Level: Difficult
Lighting Requirements: Moderate to high (PAR 220-350)
Water Flow: Moderate
Aggressiveness: Aggressive
Range: Fiji, Tonga, Indo-Pacific
Family: Actiniidae
Water Conditions: 75-80° F; sg 1.024-1.026 (1.025 is ideal); pH 8.1-8.4 Ca 420-440 ppm, Alk 8-9.5 dKH, Mg 1260-1350, Nitrates <10ppm, Phosphates, < .10ppm
Water Chemistry: It is important that proper calcium (420-440 ppm), alkalinity (8-9.5 dkh - run it 7-8 if you are carbon dosing) , and magnesium levels (1260-1350 ppm) are maintained. Raising magnesium levels gradually up to 1400-1600 ppm can help to combat algae outbreaks, just keep CA and Alk in line as you raise the Mg. Nitrates should be below 10 ppm and phosphates should be below .10 ppm. We recommend doing a water change when Nitrate levels rise to 10 ppm. It is important to replace your phosphate media when phosphates rise to .10 ppm. Media Reactors make the most efficient use of your phosphate media by fluidizing it.
Dosing: Vivid Aquariums uses and recommends dosing pumps to automate the dosing of additives and keep your levels more constant. A dosing pump can alleviate the chore of manually dosing your aquarium with Ca, Alk, & Mg 2,3, or 4 times per week and will benefit your aquarium by keeping your levels constant through frequent small additions of Ca, Alk, & Mg. Our tanks all progressed when we switched from 3 manual dosings per week to 70 automatic dosings per week and we got a lot more work done.
Bumble Bee Snail
$ 2.99
How to Care for Bumble Bee Snail
written by Dave Burr
Bumble Bee Snails will burrow through the sand looking for detritus and small worms. They will forage around the live rock as well eating bits of leftover food as they go.
Feeding: You may supplement the Bumble Bee Snails' diet with mysis shrimp or small bits of meaty food.
Growth: Maintaining proper Ca, Alk, & Mg levels is important for growth of their shells.
Tip: Don't forget about your water parameters when combating algae blooms. Water chemistry is every bit as important as a good clean-up crew.
Care Level: Easy
Reef Compatible: Yes
Diet: Carnivore, Detritus, Omnivore
Range: Indo-Pacific
Family: Buccinidae
Water Conditions: 75-80° F; sg 1.024-1.026 (1.025 is ideal); pH 8.1-8.4 Ca 420-440 ppm, Alk 8-9.5 dKH, Mg 1260-1350, Nitrates <10ppm, Phosphates < .10ppm
Water Chemistry: It is important that proper calcium (420-440 ppm), alkalinity (8-9.5 dkh - run it 7-8 if you are carbon dosing) , and magnesium levels (1260-1350 ppm) are maintained. Raising magnesium levels gradually up to 1400-1600 ppm can help to combat algae outbreaks, just keep CA and Alk in line as you raise the Mg. Nitrates should be below 10 ppm and phosphates should be below .10 ppm. We recommend doing a water change when Nitrate levels rise to 10 ppm. It is important to replace your phosphate media when phosphates rise to .10 ppm. Media Reactors make the most efficient use of your phosphate media by fluidizing it.
Dosing: Vivid Aquariums uses and recommends dosing pumps to automate the dosing of additives and keep your levels more constant. A dosing pump can alleviate the chore of manually dosing your aquarium with Ca, Alk, & Mg 2,3, or 4 times per week and will benefit your aquarium by keeping your levels constant through frequent small additions of Ca, Alk, & Mg. Our tanks all progressed when we switched from 3 manual dosings per week to 70 automatic dosings per week and we got a lot more work done.
Chocolate Chip Starfish
$ 19.99
How to Care for Chocolate Chip Starfish
written by Dave Burr
A good choice for a peaceful community aquarium, but not for a reef aquarium. The Chocolate Chip Starfish may eat corals, clams, sponges, anemones and ornamental invertebrates. It is one of the easier starfish to keep and can do very well in established aquariums when provided with live rock and live sand to forage through. Triggers and puffers may pick on Chocolate Chip Starfish. More than one individual may be kept in larger aquariums of 80 gallons or more.
Feeding: Provide the Chocolate Chip Starfish with bits of meaty foods such as chopped shrimp, clams, or silversides. It will also scavenge the aquarium for bits of food missed by the fish.
Tip: Maintaining proper pH, Ca, Alk, & Mg levels is important for starfish.
Acclimation: Take the time to do a drip acclimation with any starfish as they do not tolerate rapid changes in water chemistry very well.
Care Level: Moderate
Reef Compatible: Not good in reef aquariums
Diet: Carnivore
Range: Indo Pacific
Family: Oreasteridae, Solomon Islands
Water Conditions: 75-80° F; sg 1.024-1.026 (1.025 is ideal); pH 8.1-8.4 Ca 420-440 ppm, Alk 8-9.5 dKH, Mg 1260-1350, Nitrates <10ppm, Phosphates < .10ppm
Water Chemistry: It is important that proper calcium (420-440 ppm), alkalinity (8-9.5 dkh - run it 7-8 if you are carbon dosing) , and magnesium levels (1260-1350 ppm) are maintained. Raising magnesium levels gradually up to 1400-1600 ppm can help to combat algae outbreaks, just keep CA and Alk in line as you raise the Mg. Nitrates should be below 10 ppm and phosphates should be below .10 ppm. We recommend doing a water change when Nitrate levels rise to 10 ppm. It is important to replace your phosphate media when phosphates rise to .10 ppm. Media Reactors make the most efficient use of your phosphate media by fluidizing it.
Dosing: Vivid Aquariums uses and recommends dosing pumps to automate the dosing of additives and keep your levels more constant. A dosing pump can alleviate the chore of manually dosing your aquarium with Ca, Alk, & Mg 2,3, or 4 times per week and will benefit your aquarium by keeping your levels constant through frequent small additions of Ca, Alk, & Mg. Our tanks all progressed when we switched from 3 manual dosings per week to 70 automatic dosings per week and we got a lot more work done.
Cleaner Shrimp
$ 32.99
How to Care for Cleaner Shrimp
written by Dave Burr
A more suitable name would be Cleaner Shrimp M.D. Adding Cleaner Shrimp to a reef aquarium is an effective and natural method of combating disease.
Behavior: Cleaner Shrimp will clean parasites, such as ich, from the bodies and gills of fish in the aquarium. Fish value it's service and will approach the shrimp to wait for a free cleaning. Some large fish in the wild allow the Cleaner Shrimp to clean the insides of their mouths without harming it.
Predators: Triggers, Larger Hawkfish, Groupers, Lionfish, and large predatory wrasses may eat Cleaner Shrimp. House larger cleaner shrimp with smaller fish to help even the odds if housing with these types of fish.
Feeding: Offer mysis shrimp or small bits of meaty foods.
Growth: Maintaining proper pH, Ca, Alk, & Mg levels is important for shrimp. Providing additions of iodine will help the shrimp to molt and grow.
Acclimation: Take the time to do a drip acclimation with any shrimp as they do not tolerate rapid changes in water chemistry very well.
Care Level: Easy
Reef Compatible: Yes
Diet: Carnivore
Range: Indo-Pacific, Indian Ocean
Family: Hippolytidae
Water Conditions: 75-80° F; sg 1.024-1.026 (1.025 is ideal); pH 8.1-8.4 Ca 420-440 ppm, Alk 8-9.5 dKH, Mg 1260-1350, Nitrates <10ppm, Phosphates < .10ppm
Water Chemistry: It is important that proper calcium (420-440 ppm), alkalinity (8-9.5 dkh - run it 7-8 if you are carbon dosing) , and magnesium levels (1260-1350 ppm) are maintained. Raising magnesium levels gradually up to 1400-1600 ppm can help to combat algae outbreaks, just keep CA and Alk in line as you raise the Mg. Nitrates should be below 10 ppm and phosphates should be below .10 ppm. We recommend doing a water change when Nitrate levels rise to 10 ppm. It is important to replace your phosphate media when phosphates rise to .10 ppm. Media Reactors make the most efficient use of your phosphate media by fluidizing it.
Dosing: Vivid Aquariums uses and recommends dosing pumps to automate the dosing of additives and keep your levels more constant. A dosing pump can alleviate the chore of manually dosing your aquarium with Ca, Alk, & Mg 2,3, or 4 times per week and will benefit your aquarium by keeping your levels constant through frequent small additions of Ca, Alk, & Mg. Our tanks all progressed when we switched from 3 manual dosings per week to 70 automatic dosings per week and we got a lot more work done.
Video
Colored Dwarf Feather Duster
$ 14.99
How to Care for Colored Dwarf Feather Duster
written by Dave Burr
Colored Dwarf Feather Dusters come in a variety of colorations including beautiful pinks and yellows. Feather Dusters use their radioles, or "feathers" to filter plankton and small floating organisms from the water into their mouth located at the center of the crown. When disturbed, the Feather Duster can retract quickly into its tube for safety. If severely stressed it can discard its crown (feathers) completely and can grow a new crown.
Placement: When placing Feather Dusters in the aquarium you may bury them in the sand with the crown end of the tube protruding from the sand, or stick them in a hole in the rocks with the crown end facing outward. If they are retracted and you don't know which end is which lay them on the sand bed until they open and then place them into position.
Feeding: Offer the Colored Dwarf Feather Duster phytoplankton and marine snow.
Care Level: Easy
Reef Compatible: Yes
Diet: Omnivore
Range: Indo-Pacific
Family: Sabellidae
Water Conditions: 75-80° F; sg 1.024-1.026 (1.025 is ideal); pH 8.1-8.4 Ca 420-440 ppm, Alk 8-9.5 dKH, Mg 1260-1350, Nitrates <10ppm, Phosphates < .10ppm
Water Chemistry: It is important that proper calcium (420-440 ppm), alkalinity (8-9.5 dkh - run it 7-8 if you are carbon dosing) , and magnesium levels (1260-1350 ppm) are maintained. Raising magnesium levels gradually up to 1400-1600 ppm can help to combat algae outbreaks, just keep CA and Alk in line as you raise the Mg. Nitrates should be below 10 ppm and phosphates should be below .10 ppm. We recommend doing a water change when Nitrate levels rise to 10 ppm. It is important to replace your phosphate media when phosphates rise to .10 ppm. Media Reactors make the most efficient use of your phosphate media by fluidizing it.
Dosing: Vivid Aquariums uses and recommends dosing pumps to automate the dosing of additives and keep your levels more constant. A dosing pump can alleviate the chore of manually dosing your aquarium with Ca, Alk, & Mg 2,3, or 4 times per week and will benefit your aquarium by keeping your levels constant through frequent small additions of Ca, Alk, & Mg. Our tanks all progressed when we switched from 3 manual dosings per week to 70 automatic dosings per week and we got a lot more work done.
Coral Banded Shrimp
$ 19.99
How to Care for Coral Banded Shrimp
written by Dave Burr
Coral Banded Shrimp are a hardy aquarium species that are usually spotted lurking in the shadows. They come out at feeding time to collect any scraps of food missed by the fish. Supplemental feeding is usually not required as long as there are some leftovers for the shrimp to eat. Multiple individuals will usually fight unless kept as a mated pair.
Predators: Triggers, larger Hawkfish, Groupers, Lionfish, and large predatory Wrasses may eat Coral Banded Shrimp. They are best kept with smaller reef safe fish.
Growth: Maintaining proper pH, Ca, Alk, & Mg levels is important for shrimp. Providing additions of iodine will help the shrimp to molt and grow.
Acclimation: Take the time to do a drip acclimation with any shrimp as they do not tolerate rapid changes in water chemistry very well.
Care Level: Easy
Reef Compatible: Yes
Diet: Carnivore
Range: Indo-Pacific, Hawaii, Caribbean, Sri Lanka
Family: Stenopodidae
Water Conditions: 75-80° F; sg 1.024-1.026 (1.025 is ideal); pH 8.1-8.4 Ca 420-440 ppm, Alk 8-9.5 dKH, Mg 1260-1350, Nitrates <10ppm, Phosphates < .10ppm
Water Chemistry: It is important that proper calcium (420-440 ppm), alkalinity (8-9.5 dkh - run it 7-8 if you are carbon dosing) , and magnesium levels (1260-1350 ppm) are maintained. Raising magnesium levels gradually up to 1400-1600 ppm can help to combat algae outbreaks, just keep CA and Alk in line as you raise the Mg. Nitrates should be below 10 ppm and phosphates should be below .10 ppm. We recommend doing a water change when Nitrate levels rise to 10 ppm. It is important to replace your phosphate media when phosphates rise to .10 ppm. Media Reactors make the most efficient use of your phosphate media by fluidizing it.
Dosing: Vivid Aquariums uses and recommends dosing pumps to automate the dosing of additives and keep your levels more constant. A dosing pump can alleviate the chore of manually dosing your aquarium with Ca, Alk, & Mg 2,3, or 4 times per week and will benefit your aquarium by keeping your levels constant through frequent small additions of Ca, Alk, & Mg. Our tanks all progressed when we switched from 3 manual dosings per week to 70 automatic dosings per week and we got a lot more work done.
Feeding: Offer the Coral Banded Shrimp small pieces of meaty foods.
Derasa Clam
$ 89.99
How to Care for Derasa Clam
written by Dave Burr
Derasa Clams are one of the easier clams to keep and make a great choice for a beginner. They are a good conversation piece and are sure to dazzle you with their beauty. Do not house with Triggers, Puffers, and aggressive predatory Wrasses as they cannot seem to resist picking at clams.
Lighting & Flow Requirements: Derasa Clams require moderate water flow and moderate lighting (PAR 180-300). T5's, Metal Halides, or LED's can all grow Derasa Clams when the proper PAR levels are provided. We recommend a 14-20K color spectrum for best coloration.
Placement: Place the Derasa Clam in the sand, or in a rock crevice, in the lower half of the aquarium where they will receive moderate currents and moderate lighting.
Feeding: Although symbiotic algae called zooxanthellae hosted within them supply most of their nutritional requirements through photosynthesis they do benefit from supplemental feedings Phytoplankton. Target feeding gets the clam fed using less food while keeping your nitrates and phosphates lower.
Care Level: Easy
Lighting Requirements: Moderate (PAR 180-300)
Water Flow: Moderate
Aggressiveness: Peaceful
Range: Indo Pacific
Family: Tridacnidae
Water Conditions: 75-80° F; sg 1.024-1.026 (1.025 is ideal); pH 8.1-8.4 Ca 420-440 ppm, Alk 8-9.5 dKH, Mg 1260-1350, Nitrates <10ppm, Phosphates, < .10ppm
Water Chemistry: It is important that proper calcium (420-440 ppm), alkalinity (8-9.5 dkh - run it 7-8 if you are carbon dosing) , and magnesium levels (1260-1350 ppm) are maintained. Raising magnesium levels gradually up to 1400-1600 ppm can help to combat algae outbreaks, just keep CA and Alk in line as you raise the Mg. Nitrates should be below 10 ppm and phosphates should be below .10 ppm. We recommend doing a water change when Nitrate levels rise to 10 ppm. It is important to replace your phosphate media when phosphates rise to .10 ppm. Media Reactors make the most efficient use of your phosphate media by fluidizing it.
Dosing: Vivid Aquariums uses and recommends dosing pumps to automate the dosing of additives and keep your levels more constant. A dosing pump can alleviate the chore of manually dosing your aquarium with Ca, Alk, & Mg 2,3, or 4 times per week and will benefit your aquarium by keeping your levels constant through frequent small additions of Ca, Alk, & Mg. Our tanks all progressed when we switched from 3 manual dosings per week to 70 automatic dosings per week and we got a lot more work done.
Electric Blue Hermit Crab
Sold Out - $ 12.99
How to Care for Electric Blue Hermit Crab
written by Dave Burr
The Electric Blue Hermit Crab is a superb algae eater, and will even eat filamentous algae and cyanobacteria. It is very useful in keeping reef aquariums clean and free of undesirable algae.
Growth: As they grow they will need larger shells to take the place of the shell they outgrew. Place several old snail shells in the aquarium where the hermit crabs can get to them when the time comes to move to a larger shell. Maintaining proper Ca, Alk, & Mg levels is important for growth of their shells.
Feeding: If no algae is present in the aquarium you may supplement the Electric Blue Hermit Crabs' diet with live macro algae, dried seaweed (nori), and mysis shrimp.
Tip: Don't forget about your water parameters when combating algae blooms. Water chemistry is every bit as important as a good clean-up crew.
Care Level: Easy
Reef Compatible: Yes
Diet: Herbivore, Omnivore
Range: Indo-Pacific
Family: Diogenidae
Water Conditions: 75-80° F; sg 1.024-1.026 (1.025 is ideal); pH 8.1-8.4 Ca 420-440 ppm, Alk 8-9.5 dKH, Mg 1260-1350, Nitrates <10ppm, Phosphates < .10ppm
Water Chemistry: It is important that proper calcium (420-440 ppm), alkalinity (8-9.5 dkh - run it 7-8 if you are carbon dosing) , and magnesium levels (1260-1350 ppm) are maintained. Raising magnesium levels gradually up to 1400-1600 ppm can help to combat algae outbreaks, just keep CA and Alk in line as you raise the Mg. Nitrates should be below 10 ppm and phosphates should be below .10 ppm. We recommend doing a water change when Nitrate levels rise to 10 ppm. It is important to replace your phosphate media when phosphates rise to .10 ppm. Media Reactors make the most efficient use of your phosphate media by fluidizing it.
Dosing: Vivid Aquariums uses and recommends dosing pumps to automate the dosing of additives and keep your levels more constant. A dosing pump can alleviate the chore of manually dosing your aquarium with Ca, Alk, & Mg 2,3, or 4 times per week and will benefit your aquarium by keeping your levels constant through frequent small additions of Ca, Alk, & Mg. Our tanks all progressed when we switched from 3 manual dosings per week to 70 automatic dosings per week and we got a lot more work done.
Video
Emerald Crab
$ 9.99
How to Care for Emerald Crabs
written by Dave Burr
The Emerald Crab is a superb algae eater, and probably one of the very best at cleaning eating bubble algae. It is very useful in keeping reef aquariums clean.
Behavior: Large specimens can be harmful to small fish and invertebrates although this is less likely if there is sufficient algae for the crab to eat.
Growth: Maintaining proper Ca, Alk, & Mg levels is important for growth of their shells.
Feeding: If no algae is present in the aquarium you may supplement the Emerald Crab's diet with live macro algae, dried seaweed (nori), or mysis shrimp.
Tip: Don't forget about your water parameters when combating algae blooms. Water chemistry is every bit as important as a good clean-up crew.
Care Level: Easy
Reef Compatible: Yes
Diet: Omnivore, Herbivore
Range: Caribbean, Atlantic
Family: Majidae
Water Conditions: 75-80° F; sg 1.024-1.026 (1.025 is ideal); pH 8.1-8.4 Ca 420-440 ppm, Alk 8-9.5 dKH, Mg 1260-1350, Nitrates <10ppm, Phosphates < .10ppm
Water Chemistry: It is important that proper calcium (420-440 ppm), alkalinity (8-9.5 dkh - run it 7-8 if you are carbon dosing) , and magnesium levels (1260-1350 ppm) are maintained. Raising magnesium levels gradually up to 1400-1600 ppm can help to combat algae outbreaks, just keep CA and Alk in line as you raise the Mg. Nitrates should be below 10 ppm and phosphates should be below .10 ppm. We recommend doing a water change when Nitrate levels rise to 10 ppm. It is important to replace your phosphate media when phosphates rise to .10 ppm. Media Reactors make the most efficient use of your phosphate media by fluidizing it.
Dosing: Vivid Aquariums uses and recommends dosing pumps to automate the dosing of additives and keep your levels more constant. A dosing pump can alleviate the chore of manually dosing your aquarium with Ca, Alk, & Mg 2,3, or 4 times per week and will benefit your aquarium by keeping your levels constant through frequent small additions of Ca, Alk, & Mg. Our tanks all progressed when we switched from 3 manual dosings per week to 70 automatic dosings per week and we got a lot more work done.
Fire Shrimp
$ 43.99
How to Care for Fire Shrimp
written by Dave Burr
These brilliant red shrimp act as good housekeepers in reef aquariums by eating scraps of food left behind by the fish. They are not shy about grabbing chunks of food from fish during feeding time. Fire shrimp are a good invertebrate for the beginning reef aquarist and will even help to control disease by cleaning parasites off of fish. They spend most of the day hiding under ledges away from the bright light.
Predators: Triggers, Larger Hawkfish, Groupers, Lionfish, and large predatory wrasses may eat Fire Shrimp. House larger shrimp with smaller fish to help even the odds if housing with these types of fish.
Feeding: Offer mysis shrimp or small bits of meaty foods.
Growth: Maintaining proper pH, Ca, Alk, & Mg levels is important for shrimp. Providing additions of iodine will help the shrimp to molt and grow.
Acclimation: Take the time to do a drip acclimation with any shrimp as they do not tolerate rapid changes in water chemistry very well.
Care Level: Easy
Reef Compatible: Yes
Diet: Carnivore
Range: Indo-Pacific, Sri Lanka
Family: Hippolytidae
Water Conditions: 75-80° F; sg 1.024-1.026 (1.025 is ideal); pH 8.1-8.4 Ca 420-440 ppm, Alk 8-9.5 dKH, Mg 1260-1350, Nitrates <10ppm, Phosphates < .10ppm
Water Chemistry: It is important that proper calcium (420-440 ppm), alkalinity (8-9.5 dkh - run it 7-8 if you are carbon dosing) , and magnesium levels (1260-1350 ppm) are maintained. Raising magnesium levels gradually up to 1400-1600 ppm can help to combat algae outbreaks, just keep CA and Alk in line as you raise the Mg. Nitrates should be below 10 ppm and phosphates should be below .10 ppm. We recommend doing a water change when Nitrate levels rise to 10 ppm. It is important to replace your phosphate media when phosphates rise to .10 ppm. Media Reactors make the most efficient use of your phosphate media by fluidizing it.
Dosing: Vivid Aquariums uses and recommends dosing pumps to automate the dosing of additives and keep your levels more constant. A dosing pump can alleviate the chore of manually dosing your aquarium with Ca, Alk, & Mg 2,3, or 4 times per week and will benefit your aquarium by keeping your levels constant through frequent small additions of Ca, Alk, & Mg. Our tanks all progressed when we switched from 3 manual dosings per week to 70 automatic dosings per week and we got a lot more work done.
Giant Feather Duster
$ 16.99
How to Care for Giant Feather Duster
written by Dave Burr
Giant Feather Dusters come in a variety of colorations ranging from tan and white to purple and tan. Feather Dusters use their radioles, or "feathers" to filter plankton and small floating organisms from the water into their mouth located at the center of the crown. When disturbed, the Feather Duster can retract quickly into its tube for safety. If severely stressed it can discard its crown (feathers) completely and can grow a new crown.
Placement: When placing Feather Dusters in the aquarium you may bury them in the sand with the crown end of the tube protruding from the sand, or stick them in a hole in the rocks with the crown end facing outward. If they are retracted and you don't know which end is which, lay them on the sand bed until they open and then place them into position.
Feeding: Offer the Giant Feather Duster phytoplankton and marine snow.
Care Level: Easy
Reef Compatible: Yes
Diet: Omnivore
Range: Indo-Pacific
Family: Sabellidae
Water Conditions: 75-80° F; sg 1.024-1.026 (1.025 is ideal); pH 8.1-8.4 Ca 420-440 ppm, Alk 8-9.5 dKH, Mg 1260-1350, Nitrates <10ppm, Phosphates < .10ppm
Water Chemistry: It is important that proper calcium (420-440 ppm), alkalinity (8-9.5 dkh - run it 7-8 if you are carbon dosing) , and magnesium levels (1260-1350 ppm) are maintained. Raising magnesium levels gradually up to 1400-1600 ppm can help to combat algae outbreaks, just keep CA and Alk in line as you raise the Mg. Nitrates should be below 10 ppm and phosphates should be below .10 ppm. We recommend doing a water change when Nitrate levels rise to 10 ppm. It is important to replace your phosphate media when phosphates rise to .10 ppm. Media Reactors make the most efficient use of your phosphate media by fluidizing it.
Dosing: Vivid Aquariums uses and recommends dosing pumps to automate the dosing of additives and keep your levels more constant. A dosing pump can alleviate the chore of manually dosing your aquarium with Ca, Alk, & Mg 2,3, or 4 times per week and will benefit your aquarium by keeping your levels constant through frequent small additions of Ca, Alk, & Mg. Our tanks all progressed when we switched from 3 manual dosings per week to 70 automatic dosings per week and we got a lot more work done.
Green Brittle Starfish
$ 24.99
How to Care for Green Brittle Starfish
written by Dave Burr
Brittle Starfish are great housekeepers for the reef aquarium and will eat dead organisms, and uneaten food before these items can decay and pollute the aquarium.
Although Brittle Starfish are not a threat to corals or clams, they may catch and eat small passive reef fishes, such as small gobies, at night. Otherwise Brittle Starfish are great reef inhabitants.
Acclimation: Maintaining proper pH, Ca, Alk, & Mg levels is important for starfish. Take the time to do a drip acclimation with any starfish as they do not tolerate rapid changes in water chemistry very well.
Feeding: Provide the Green Brittle Starfish with bits of meaty foods such as mysis shrimp, or chopped shrimp, or silversides. It will also scavenge the aquarium for bits of food missed by the fish.
Care Level: Easy
Reef Compatible: Yes - may become semi-aggressive as they mature
Diet: Carnivore
Range: Indo-Pacific
Family: Ophiodermatidae
Water Conditions: 75-80° F; sg 1.024-1.026 (1.025 is ideal); pH 8.1-8.4 Ca 420-440 ppm, Alk 8-9.5 dKH, Mg 1260-1350, Nitrates <10ppm, Phosphates < .10ppm
Water Chemistry: It is important that proper calcium (420-440 ppm), alkalinity (8-9.5 dkh - run it 7-8 if you are carbon dosing) , and magnesium levels (1260-1350 ppm) are maintained. Raising magnesium levels gradually up to 1400-1600 ppm can help to combat algae outbreaks, just keep CA and Alk in line as you raise the Mg. Nitrates should be below 10 ppm and phosphates should be below .10 ppm. We recommend doing a water change when Nitrate levels rise to 10 ppm. It is important to replace your phosphate media when phosphates rise to .10 ppm. Media Reactors make the most efficient use of your phosphate media by fluidizing it.
Dosing: Vivid Aquariums uses and recommends dosing pumps to automate the dosing of additives and keep your levels more constant. A dosing pump can alleviate the chore of manually dosing your aquarium with Ca, Alk, & Mg 2,3, or 4 times per week and will benefit your aquarium by keeping your levels constant through frequent small additions of Ca, Alk, & Mg. Our tanks all progressed when we switched from 3 manual dosings per week to 70 automatic dosings per week and we got a lot more work done.
Harlequin Shrimp
$ 59.99
How to Care for Harlequin Shrimp
written by Dave Burr
The Harlequin Shrimp feeds almost exclusively on starfish and is especially useful in ridding your aquarium of the parasitic Asterina Starfish. It requires only one larger starfish per month to maintain proper health. When kept in aquariums with infestations of small starfish additional feeding is usually not required.
Predators: Triggers, Larger Hawkfish, Groupers, Lionfish, and large predatory wrasses may eat Harlequin Shrimp. House larger shrimp with smaller fish to help even the odds if housing with these types of fish.
Feeding: Offer the Harlequin Shrimp starfish to feed on. It will feed on the parasitic Asterina Starfish and many others.
Growth: Maintaining proper pH, Ca, Alk, & Mg levels is important for Harlequin Shrimp. Providing additions of iodine will help the Harlequin Shrimp to molt and grow.
Acclimation: Take the time to do a drip acclimation with any shrimp as they do not tolerate rapid changes in water chemistry very well.
Care Level: Easy
Reef Compatible: Yes
Diet: Carnivore
Range: Indo-Pacific, Indian Ocean
Family: Gnathophylidae
Water Conditions: 75-80° F; sg 1.024-1.026 (1.025 is ideal); pH 8.1-8.4 Ca 420-440 ppm, Alk 8-9.5 dKH, Mg 1260-1350, Nitrates <10ppm, Phosphates < .10ppm
Water Chemistry: It is important that proper calcium (420-440 ppm), alkalinity (8-9.5 dkh - run it 7-8 if you are carbon dosing) , and magnesium levels (1260-1350 ppm) are maintained. Raising magnesium levels gradually up to 1400-1600 ppm can help to combat algae outbreaks, just keep CA and Alk in line as you raise the Mg. Nitrates should be below 10 ppm and phosphates should be below .10 ppm. We recommend doing a water change when Nitrate levels rise to 10 ppm. It is important to replace your phosphate media when phosphates rise to .10 ppm. Media Reactors make the most efficient use of your phosphate media by fluidizing it.
Dosing: Vivid Aquariums uses and recommends dosing pumps to automate the dosing of additives and keep your levels more constant. A dosing pump can alleviate the chore of manually dosing your aquarium with Ca, Alk, & Mg 2,3, or 4 times per week and will benefit your aquarium by keeping your levels constant through frequent small additions of Ca, Alk, & Mg. Our tanks all progressed when we switched from 3 manual dosings per week to 70 automatic dosings per week and we got a lot more work done.
Video
Indonesian Sea Apple
Sold Out - $ 69.99
How to Care Indonesian Sea Apple
written by Dave Burr
The Sea Apple uses its oral tentacles to catch food that floats by. As each tentacle becomes full of food it draws its entire tentacle into its mouth. The Sea Apple should be target feed fed foods for filter feeders including marine snow, phytoplankton, and zooplankton. A colorful and bizarre addition to any reef aquarium, the Sea Apple can live for many years in the home aquarium.
Behavior: A Sea Apple will move around the aquarium until it finds an area with a good current where it can filter plenty of food. Once it finds a desirable spot it may stay there for many months.
Feeding: The Sea Apple should be target fed foods for filter feeders including marine snow, phytoplankton, and zooplankton. If not properly fed, the body of the Sea Apple will slowly begin to shrink. Try creating a storm in your aquarium using a turkey baster to blow jets of water into the dead spots of the aquarium to stir up the detritus. Then sit back and watch as it feeds on bits of detritus that float by.
CAUTION! When harassed, and upon death, the Sea Apple may release toxins that could kill fish in the aquarium. Do not house with butterflyfish, large angelfish, or other fish that are not safe with invertebrates. If you observe a fish picking at it, remove the fish or the Sea Apple immediately to a separate tank.
Tip: The Sea Apple can be harmed by the intakes of any pumps or powerheads in the aquarium, so make sure to protect all intakes to prevent the Sea Apple from being sucked in.
Vivid Aquariums cannot accept any responsibility for any losses that may occur should the Sea Apple poison the aquarium. Instances of Sea Apples causing death in reef aquariums are very rare but it can happen. It’s a gamble - you choose to roll the dice, or not.
Care Level: Expert Only - poisonous when stressed or after death
Reef Compatible: Yes
Diet: Filter Feeder
Range: Indo Pacific
Family: Holothuriidae
Water Conditions: 75-80° F; sg 1.024-1.026 (1.025 is ideal); pH 8.1-8.4 Ca 420-440 ppm, Alk 8-9.5 dKH, Mg 1260-1350, Nitrates <10ppm, Phosphates < .10ppm
Water Chemistry: It is important that proper calcium (420-440 ppm), alkalinity (8-9.5 dkh - run it 7-8 if you are carbon dosing) , and magnesium levels (1260-1350 ppm) are maintained. Raising magnesium levels gradually up to 1400-1600 ppm can help to combat algae outbreaks, just keep CA and Alk in line as you raise the Mg. Nitrates should be below 10 ppm and phosphates should be below .10 ppm. We recommend doing a water change when Nitrate levels rise to 10 ppm. It is important to replace your phosphate media when phosphates rise to .10 ppm. Media Reactors make the most efficient use of your phosphate media by fluidizing it.
Dosing: Vivid Aquariums uses and recommends dosing pumps to automate the dosing of additives and keep your levels more constant. A dosing pump can alleviate the chore of manually dosing your aquarium with Ca, Alk, & Mg 2,3, or 4 times per week and will benefit your aquarium by keeping your levels constant through frequent small additions of Ca, Alk, & Mg. Our tanks all progressed when we switched from 3 manual dosings per week to 70 automatic dosings per week and we got a lot more work done.
Video
Lettuce Nudibranch
Sold Out - $ 18.99
How to Care for Lettuce Nudibranch
written by Dave Burr
The Lettuce Nudibranch will forage for algae throughout the aquarium. It gains energy through photosynthesis and through the algae it eats.
Feeding: If no algae is present in the aquarium you may supplement the Lettuce Nudibranchs' diet with live macro algae or dried seaweed (nori).
Protection: Overflows and pump intakes can harm the Lettuce Nudibranch. Use plastic mesh of filter material to protect it from those areas.
Tip: Don't forget about your water parameters when combating algae blooms. Water chemistry is every bit as important as a good clean-up crew.
Care Level: Easy
Reef Compatible: Yes
Diet: Herbivore
Range: Indo-Pacific
Family: Elysidae
Water Conditions: 75-80° F; sg 1.024-1.026 (1.025 is ideal); pH 8.1-8.4 Ca 420-440 ppm, Alk 8-9.5 dKH, Mg 1260-1350, Nitrates <10ppm, Phosphates < .10ppm
Water Chemistry: It is important that proper calcium (420-440 ppm), alkalinity (8-9.5 dkh - run it 7-8 if you are carbon dosing) , and magnesium levels (1260-1350 ppm) are maintained. Raising magnesium levels gradually up to 1400-1600 ppm can help to combat algae outbreaks, just keep CA and Alk in line as you raise the Mg. Nitrates should be below 10 ppm and phosphates should be below .10 ppm. We recommend doing a water change when Nitrate levels rise to 10 ppm. It is important to replace your phosphate media when phosphates rise to .10 ppm. Media Reactors make the most efficient use of your phosphate media by fluidizing it.
Dosing: Vivid Aquariums uses and recommends dosing pumps to automate the dosing of additives and keep your levels more constant. A dosing pump can alleviate the chore of manually dosing your aquarium with Ca, Alk, & Mg 2,3, or 4 times per week and will benefit your aquarium by keeping your levels constant through frequent small additions of Ca, Alk, & Mg. Our tanks all progressed when we switched from 3 manual dosings per week to 70 automatic dosings per week and we got a lot more work done.
Long Tentacle Anemone
$ 49.99
How to Care for Long Tentacle Anemone
written by Dave Burr
Long Tentacle Anemones come in a variety of colors from white to green. The column is always a reddish orange color.
Behavior: The Long Tentacle Anemone will host a wide variety of clownfish including Maroon, Gold Maroon, Clarkii, Ocellaris, and Percula Clownfish. Keeping the anemone with a clownfish will help it acclimate faster since the clownfish will feed it scraps of food. Anemone can trap and eat other small fishes. However, most fish know to stay away.
Sting: The Long Tentacle Anemone has a potent sting that may harm other anemones or corals as it moves about the aquarium. Provide it with several areas where it can anchor its column in the substrate. Be ready to move corals out of its way if it should choose to anchor too close to them.
Tip: Do not try to move the anemone once anchored because its column, or foot, can be easily torn. Most anemones will die from a torn column.
Gloves: We recommend wearing gloves when handling Long Tentacle Anemones. When placing the anemone try to support it from its slippery underside. Do not use tongs, and do not touch this anemone with bare hands.
Placement: Try creating an "Anemone Lagoon" using rocks to create three sides. Provide 3"-4" of sand for the Long Tentacle Anemone to anchor its foot. Dig a hole in the sand, turn down the flow, and place the Long Tentacle Anemone in the hole. Try to minimize handling and support it by its slippery foot as much as possible. Leave 3"-5" between the anemone and nearby corals.
Feeding: Feed large pieces of silverside, squid, shrimp, and other meaty foods several times a week. Use a feeder stick and touch the piece of food against the anemone. Its sticky tentacles will grab onto the food. Be careful not to poke the anemone.
Lighting & Flow Requirements: The Long Tentacle Aneomne requires moderate water flow and moderate lighting (PAR 180-280). T5's, Metal Halides, or LED's can all maintain Long Tentacle Anemones when the proper PAR levels are provided. We recommend a 14-20K color spectrum for best coloration.
Care Level: Moderate
Lighting Requirements: Moderate (PAR 180-280)
Water Flow: Moderate
Aggressiveness: Aggressive
Range: Indo-Pacific
Family: Actiniidae
Water Conditions: 75-80° F; sg 1.024-1.026 (1.025 is ideal); pH 8.1-8.4 Ca 420-440 ppm, Alk 8-9.5 dKH, Mg 1260-1350, Nitrates <10ppm, Phosphates, < .10ppm
Water Chemistry: It is important that proper calcium (420-440 ppm), alkalinity (8-9.5 dkh - run it 7-8 if you are carbon dosing) , and magnesium levels (1260-1350 ppm) are maintained. Raising magnesium levels gradually up to 1400-1600 ppm can help to combat algae outbreaks, just keep CA and Alk in line as you raise the Mg. Nitrates should be below 10 ppm and phosphates should be below .10 ppm. We recommend doing a water change when Nitrate levels rise to 10 ppm. It is important to replace your phosphate media when phosphates rise to .10 ppm. Media Reactors make the most efficient use of your phosphate media by fluidizing it.
Dosing: Vivid Aquariums uses and recommends dosing pumps to automate the dosing of additives and keep your levels more constant. A dosing pump can alleviate the chore of manually dosing your aquarium with Ca, Alk, & Mg 2,3, or 4 times per week and will benefit your aquarium by keeping your levels constant through frequent small additions of Ca, Alk, & Mg. Our tanks all progressed when we switched from 3 manual dosings per week to 70 automatic dosings per week and we got a lot more work done.
Marble Starfish
Sold Out - $ 29.99
How to Care for Marble Starfish
written by Dave Burr
The Marble Starfish provides a burst of color to the reef as it forages over the rocks grazing on algae and eating bits of detritus. It is one of the easier starfish to keep and can do very well in established reef aquariums. More than one individual may be kept in larger aquariums of 80 gallons or more. Maintaining proper pH, Ca, Alk, & Mg levels is important for starfish.
Feeding: Provide the Marble Starfish with bits of meaty foods such as mysis shrimp, or chopped shrimp, or silversides. It will also scavenge the aquarium for bits of food missed by the fish.
Acclimation: Take the time to do a drip acclimation with any starfish as they do not tolerate rapid changes in water chemistry very well.
Care Level: Moderate
Reef Compatible: Yes
Diet: Omnivore
Range: Indo Pacific, Fiji, Indian Ocean
Family: Ophidiasteridae
Water Conditions: 75-80° F; sg 1.024-1.026 (1.025 is ideal); pH 8.1-8.4 Ca 420-440 ppm, Alk 8-9.5 dKH, Mg 1260-1350, Nitrates <10ppm, Phosphates < .10ppm
Water Chemistry: It is important that proper calcium (420-440 ppm), alkalinity (8-9.5 dkh - run it 7-8 if you are carbon dosing) , and magnesium levels (1260-1350 ppm) are maintained. Raising magnesium levels gradually up to 1400-1600 ppm can help to combat algae outbreaks, just keep CA and Alk in line as you raise the Mg. Nitrates should be below 10 ppm and phosphates should be below .10 ppm. We recommend doing a water change when Nitrate levels rise to 10 ppm. It is important to replace your phosphate media when phosphates rise to .10 ppm. Media Reactors make the most efficient use of your phosphate media by fluidizing it.
Dosing: Vivid Aquariums uses and recommends dosing pumps to automate the dosing of additives and keep your levels more constant. A dosing pump can alleviate the chore of manually dosing your aquarium with Ca, Alk, & Mg 2,3, or 4 times per week and will benefit your aquarium by keeping your levels constant through frequent small additions of Ca, Alk, & Mg. Our tanks all progressed when we switched from 3 manual dosings per week to 70 automatic dosings per week and we got a lot more work done.
Mini Rose Bubble Anemone's
$ 129.99
How to Care for Rose Bubble Tip Anemone
written by Dave Burr
The Rose Bubble Tip Anemone, or Rose Anemone, is a rare color morph of the Bubble Tip Anemone. If you have never kept an anemone before, the Rose Bubble Tip Anemone is your best choice. These beautiful anemones are much easier to keep than any other anemone we sell. Although all anemones can move around the aquarium, Rose Anemones seem to stay put much better than other anemones. They prefer to anchor their column, or foot, on the rock rather than the sand.
Behavior: The Rose Anemone will host a wide variety of clownfish including Ocellaris, Percula, Maroon, and Gold Maroon Clownfish. Keeping the anemone with a clownfish will help it acclimate faster since the clownfish will feed it scraps of food.
Tip: Do not try to move the anemone once anchored because its column, or foot, can be easily torn. Most anemones will die from a torn column. Be prepared to move corals out of its way if it should choose to anchor too close to them.
Gloves: We recommend wearing gloves when handling Anemones. When placing the anemone, try to support it from its slippery underside. Do not use tongs, and do not touch this anemone with bare hands.
Placement: Turn down the flow and place the Rose Bubble Tip Anemone in a crevice in the rock. After it has attached you may increase the flow again. Try to minimize handling and support it by its slippery foot as much as possible. Leave 3"-5" between the anemone and nearby corals. Remember that it may or may not choose to stay where you place it. If it moves to a different spot be prepared to move corals out of its way. It will not sting and kill corals instantly but they should be moved away within 12-24 hours. If a Bubble Tip Anemone anchors where you don't want it to try adjusting the direction of flow in the aquarium to cause it to release and re-attach elsewhere.
Feeding: Feed large pieces of silverside, squid, shrimp, and other meaty foods several times a week. Use a feeder stick and touch the piece of food against the anemone. Its sticky tentacles will grab onto the food. Be careful not to poke the anemone.
Lighting & Flow Requirements:
The Bubble Tip Anemone requires moderate water flow and moderate to high lighting (PAR 220-350). T5's, Metal Halides, or LED's can all maintain Bubble Tip Anemones when the proper PAR levels are provided. We recommend a 14-20K color spectrum for best coloration.
Care Level: Easy
Lighting Requirements: Moderate to high (PAR 220-350)
Water Flow: Moderate
Aggressiveness: Aggressive
Range: Fiji, Tonga, Indo-Pacific
Family: Actiniidae
Water Conditions: 75-80° F; sg 1.024-1.026 (1.025 is ideal); pH 8.1-8.4 Ca 420-440 ppm, Alk 8-9.5 dKH, Mg 1260-1350, Nitrates <10ppm, Phosphates, < .10ppm
Water Chemistry: It is important that proper calcium (420-440 ppm), alkalinity (8-9.5 dkh - run it 7-8 if you are carbon dosing) , and magnesium levels (1260-1350 ppm) are maintained. Raising magnesium levels gradually up to 1400-1600 ppm can help to combat algae outbreaks, just keep CA and Alk in line as you raise the Mg. Nitrates should be below 10 ppm and phosphates should be below .10 ppm. We recommend doing a water change when Nitrate levels rise to 10 ppm. It is important to replace your phosphate media when phosphates rise to .10 ppm. Media Reactors make the most efficient use of your phosphate media by fluidizing it.
Dosing: Vivid Aquariums uses and recommends dosing pumps to automate the dosing of additives and keep your levels more constant. A dosing pump can alleviate the chore of manually dosing your aquarium with Ca, Alk, & Mg 2,3, or 4 times per week and will benefit your aquarium by keeping your levels constant through frequent small additions of Ca, Alk, & Mg. Our tanks all progressed when we switched from 3 manual dosings per week to 70 automatic dosings per week and we got a lot more work done.
Nassarius Snail
$ 2.99
How to Care for Nassarius Snail
written by Dave Burr
Nassarius snails are very useful in aquariums because they eat detritus, or waste, and keep the sand bed stirred. Nassarius snails do not eat much in the way of algae, but are an important part of any reef aquarium. They will also eat any excess food that the fish do not eat. Nassarius Snails stir the sand bed as they borrow through it foraging for food.
Feeding: Nassarius Snails are scavengers and will eat detritus and left over meaty foods such as mysis shrimp.
Behavior: We have witnessed Nassarius snails going after some clams on occasion. I recommend placing the clam on a rock or on a flat piece of putty that protects the opening at the bottom of the shell. This way the Nassarius Snails will have a harder time getting at the delicate underside of the clam. Another option if you have a clam is to forget the Nassarius Snail and use Sand Sifting Starfish instead as they will do a similar cleaning job and don't bother clams.
Care Level: Easy
Reef Compatible: Yes
Diet: Detrivore
Range: Indo-Pacific
Family: Nassariidae
Water Conditions: 75-80° F; sg 1.024-1.026 (1.025 is ideal); pH 8.1-8.4 Ca 420-440 ppm, Alk 8-9.5 dKH, Mg 1260-1350, Nitrates <10ppm, Phosphates, < .10ppm
Video
Orange Tube Anemone
Sold Out - $ 59.99
How to Care for Orange Tube Anemone
written by Dave Burr
Unlike many other anemones, Tube Anemones do not host clownfish and do not move around the aquarium. Just bury their tube in the sand bed and they will stay there.
Tip: The Orange Tube Anemone has a long tube that should be buried in the substrate of your aquarium. Leave the open end of the tube, with the tentacles, sticking out of the substrate. It can be placed in a partially shaded area, or out in the open.
Sting: Although numerous tube anemones may be kept close together they can sting corals so make sure to leave space around them. Tube anemones can eat small fish, however this is quite rare. Fish know to stay away from them.
Placement: Create a trench in the sand bed and place the anemone in it. Cover the tube leaving only the open end of it protruding from the sand. You may place several Tube Anemones together as they do not sting each other.
Feeding: Feed marine snow, mysis shrimp, or chopped meaty foods and watch the tentacles grab the food.
Lighting & Flow Requirements: The Orange Tube Aneomne requires moderate water flow and moderate lighting (PAR 180-280). T5's, Metal Halides, or LED's can all maintain Long Tentacle Anemones when the proper PAR levels are provided. We recommend a 14-20K color spectrum for best coloration.
Care Level: Moderate
Lighting Requirements: Low to moderate (PAR 120-250)
Water Flow: Moderate
Aggressiveness: Semi-ggressive
Range: Indo-Pacific
Family: Cerianthidae
Water Conditions: 75-80° F; sg 1.024-1.026 (1.025 is ideal); pH 8.1-8.4 Ca 420-440 ppm, Alk 8-9.5 dKH, Mg 1260-1350, Nitrates <10ppm, Phosphates, < .10ppm
Water Chemistry: It is important that proper calcium (420-440 ppm), alkalinity (8-9.5 dkh - run it 7-8 if you are carbon dosing) , and magnesium levels (1260-1350 ppm) are maintained. Raising magnesium levels gradually up to 1400-1600 ppm can help to combat algae outbreaks, just keep CA and Alk in line as you raise the Mg. Nitrates should be below 10 ppm and phosphates should be below .10 ppm. We recommend doing a water change when Nitrate levels rise to 10 ppm. It is important to replace your phosphate media when phosphates rise to .10 ppm. Media Reactors make the most efficient use of your phosphate media by fluidizing it.
Dosing: Vivid Aquariums uses and recommends dosing pumps to automate the dosing of additives and keep your levels more constant. A dosing pump can alleviate the chore of manually dosing your aquarium with Ca, Alk, & Mg 2,3, or 4 times per week and will benefit your aquarium by keeping your levels constant through frequent small additions of Ca, Alk, & Mg. Our tanks all progressed when we switched from 3 manual dosings per week to 70 automatic dosings per week and we got a lot more work done.
Peppermint Shrimp
$ 11.99
How to Care for Peppermint Shrimp
written by Dave Burr
Peppermint Shrimp will eat the parasitic anemone Aiptasia and help to prevent the spread of it. It is a peaceful aquarium inhabitant and will not bother other reef inhabitants, including other shrimp. Multiple specimens may be kept together in the same aquarium.
Predators: Triggers, larger Hawkfish, Groupers, Lionfish, and large predatory Wrasses may eat Peppermint Shrimp. House larger shrimp with smaller fish to help even the odds if housing with these types of fish.
Feeding: Offer mysis shrimp or small bits of meaty foods.
Growth: Maintaining proper pH, Ca, Alk, & Mg levels is important for shrimp. Providing additions of iodine will help the shrimp to molt and grow.
Acclimation: Take the time to do a drip acclimation with any shrimp as they do not tolerate rapid changes in water chemistry very well.
Care Level: Easy
Reef Compatible: Yes
Diet: Carnivore
Range: Caribbean, Western Atlantic
Family: Hippolytidae
Water Conditions: 75-80° F; sg 1.024-1.026 (1.025 is ideal); pH 8.1-8.4 Ca 420-440 ppm, Alk 8-9.5 dKH, Mg 1260-1350, Nitrates <10ppm, Phosphates < .10ppm
Water Chemistry: It is important that proper calcium (420-440 ppm), alkalinity (8-9.5 dkh - run it 7-8 if you are carbon dosing) , and magnesium levels (1260-1350 ppm) are maintained. Raising magnesium levels gradually up to 1400-1600 ppm can help to combat algae outbreaks, just keep CA and Alk in line as you raise the Mg. Nitrates should be below 10 ppm and phosphates should be below .10 ppm. We recommend doing a water change when Nitrate levels rise to 10 ppm. It is important to replace your phosphate media when phosphates rise to .10 ppm. Media Reactors make the most efficient use of your phosphate media by fluidizing it.
Dosing: Vivid Aquariums uses and recommends dosing pumps to automate the dosing of additives and keep your levels more constant. A dosing pump can alleviate the chore of manually dosing your aquarium with Ca, Alk, & Mg 2,3, or 4 times per week and will benefit your aquarium by keeping your levels constant through frequent small additions of Ca, Alk, & Mg. Our tanks all progressed when we switched from 3 manual dosings per week to 70 automatic dosings per week and we got a lot more work done.
Pink & Black Sea Cucumber
Sold Out - $ 44.99
How to Care for Pink & Black Sea Cucumber
written by Dave Burr
What it lacks in beauty it makes up for in cleaning power. The Pink & Black Sea Cucumber is a great “housekeeper” for the reef aquarium. It eats detritus, diatoms, and scraps of meaty foods from the sand that passes through its body. One Pink & Black Sea Cucumber is sufficient for a 60 gallon aquarium.
Feeding: Provide the Pink & Black Sea Cucumber with plenty of sand bed to sift through. It will scavenge scraps of meaty foods left over by fish.
Tip: Do not keep with aggressive fishes that are not safe with invertebrates. Also make sure to protect cucumber from being sucked into an overflow box or pump intake. The Pink & Black Sea Cucumber does have the ability to release toxins into the aquarium that could poison fish, although it is extremely unlikely.
Acclimation: Maintaining proper pH, Ca, Alk, & Mg levels is important for cucumbers. Take the time to do a drip acclimation with any cucumber as they do not tolerate rapid changes in water chemistry very well.
Care Level: Easy
Reef Compatible: Yes
Diet: Omnivore
Range: Indo-Pacific
Family: Holothuridae
Water Conditions: 75-80° F; sg 1.024-1.026 (1.025 is ideal); pH 8.1-8.4 Ca 420-440 ppm, Alk 8-9.5 dKH, Mg 1260-1350, Nitrates <10ppm, Phosphates < .10ppm
Water Chemistry: It is important that proper calcium (420-440 ppm), alkalinity (8-9.5 dkh - run it 7-8 if you are carbon dosing) , and magnesium levels (1260-1350 ppm) are maintained. Raising magnesium levels gradually up to 1400-1600 ppm can help to combat algae outbreaks, just keep CA and Alk in line as you raise the Mg. Nitrates should be below 10 ppm and phosphates should be below .10 ppm. We recommend doing a water change when Nitrate levels rise to 10 ppm. It is important to replace your phosphate media when phosphates rise to .10 ppm. Media Reactors make the most efficient use of your phosphate media by fluidizing it.
Dosing: Vivid Aquariums uses and recommends dosing pumps to automate the dosing of additives and keep your levels more constant. A dosing pump can alleviate the chore of manually dosing your aquarium with Ca, Alk, & Mg 2,3, or 4 times per week and will benefit your aquarium by keeping your levels constant through frequent small additions of Ca, Alk, & Mg. Our tanks all progressed when we switched from 3 manual dosings per week to 70 automatic dosings per week and we got a lot more work done.
Pink & White Coco Worm
Sold Out - $ 79.99
How to Care for Pink & White Coco Worm
written by Dave Burr
Coco Worms, also knows as Hard Tube Coco Worms, build a calcareous tube which is hard like a shell. The crown can retract within the tube for protection. Coco worm are filter feeders and benefit from feedings of phytoplankton and other liquid foods for filter feeders.
Placement: When placing Pink & White Coco Worms in the aquarium you may bury them in the sand with the crown end of the tube protruding from the sand, or stick them in a hole in the rocks with the crown end facing outward. If they are retracted and you don't know which end is which, lay them on the sand bed until they open and then place them into position.
Feeding: Offer the Pink & White Coco Worm phytoplankton and marine snow.
Care Level: Moderate
Reef Compatible: Yes
Diet: Filter feeder
Range: Indo-Pacific
Family: Serpulidae
Water Conditions: 75-80° F; sg 1.024-1.026 (1.025 is ideal); pH 8.1-8.4 Ca 420-440 ppm, Alk 8-9.5 dKH, Mg 1260-1350, Nitrates <10ppm, Phosphates < .10ppm
Water Chemistry: It is important that proper calcium (420-440 ppm), alkalinity (8-9.5 dkh - run it 7-8 if you are carbon dosing) , and magnesium levels (1260-1350 ppm) are maintained. Raising magnesium levels gradually up to 1400-1600 ppm can help to combat algae outbreaks, just keep CA and Alk in line as you raise the Mg. Nitrates should be below 10 ppm and phosphates should be below .10 ppm. We recommend doing a water change when Nitrate levels rise to 10 ppm. It is important to replace your phosphate media when phosphates rise to .10 ppm. Media Reactors make the most efficient use of your phosphate media by fluidizing it.
Dosing: Vivid Aquariums uses and recommends dosing pumps to automate the dosing of additives and keep your levels more constant. A dosing pump can alleviate the chore of manually dosing your aquarium with Ca, Alk, & Mg 2,3, or 4 times per week and will benefit your aquarium by keeping your levels constant through frequent small additions of Ca, Alk, & Mg. Our tanks all progressed when we switched from 3 manual dosings per week to 70 automatic dosings per week and we got a lot more work done.
Porcelain Anemone Crab
$ 17.99
How to Care for Porcelain Anemone Crab
written by Dave Burr
The Porcelain Crab usually lives together in pairs in an anemone which provides protection. It uses its large claws to fend off predators. Although they will compete with clowns for anemones, clownfish usually win the competition.
Growth: Maintaining proper Ca, Alk, & Mg levels is important for growth of their shells.
Care Level: Easy
Reef Compatible: Yes
Diet: Carnivore, filter feeder
Range: Indonesia
Family: Porcellanidae
Water Conditions: 75-80° F; sg 1.024-1.026 (1.025 is ideal); pH 8.1-8.4 Ca 420-440 ppm, Alk 8-9.5 dKH, Mg 1260-1350, Nitrates <10ppm, Phosphates < .10ppm
Water Chemistry: It is important that proper calcium (420-440 ppm), alkalinity (8-9.5 dkh - run it 7-8 if you are carbon dosing) , and magnesium levels (1260-1350 ppm) are maintained. Raising magnesium levels gradually up to 1400-1600 ppm can help to combat algae outbreaks, just keep CA and Alk in line as you raise the Mg. Nitrates should be below 10 ppm and phosphates should be below .10 ppm. We recommend doing a water change when Nitrate levels rise to 10 ppm. It is important to replace your phosphate media when phosphates rise to .10 ppm. Media Reactors make the most efficient use of your phosphate media by fluidizing it.
Video
Purple Lobster
$ 29.99
How to Care for Purple Lobster
written by Dave Burr
Provide the Purple Lobster with a deep sand bed and numerous rocks where it can construct its burrow. A hiding place is especially important after molting when the lobster must wait for its new exoskeleton to harden. Constructing a cave near the front of the aquarium will improve your chances of seeing the lobster during the day as it will spend most of the daylight hours hiding in its burrow.
Behavior: Purple Lobsters will not bother corals, but may harm small passive reef fishes and some smaller invertebrates. They are highly territorial and are best kept singly. Two or more will often fight unless they are a mated pair. They grow to a maximum size of five inches in the wild, but should not grow as large in an aquarium.
Feeding: The Purple Lobster is a omnivore and a great scavenger. It will help to keep your aquarium clean by eating excess food left over by the fish.
Molting: Maintaining proper pH, Ca, Alk, & Mg levels is important for lobsters. Providing additions of iodine will help the lobster to molt and grow.
Care Level: Easy
Reef Compatible: Add with caution
Diet: Omnivore
Range: Indo-Pacific
Family: Nephropidae
Water Conditions: 75-80° F; sg 1.024-1.026 (1.025 is ideal); pH 8.1-8.4 Ca 420-440 ppm, Alk 8-9.5 dKH, Mg 1260-1350, Nitrates <10ppm, Phosphates < .10ppm
Water Chemistry: It is important that proper calcium (420-440 ppm), alkalinity (8-9.5 dkh - run it 7-8 if you are carbon dosing) , and magnesium levels (1260-1350 ppm) are maintained. Raising magnesium levels gradually up to 1400-1600 ppm can help to combat algae outbreaks, just keep CA and Alk in line as you raise the Mg. Nitrates should be below 10 ppm and phosphates should be below .10 ppm. We recommend doing a water change when Nitrate levels rise to 10 ppm. It is important to replace your phosphate media when phosphates rise to .10 ppm. Media Reactors make the most efficient use of your phosphate media by fluidizing it.
Dosing: Vivid Aquariums uses and recommends dosing pumps to automate the dosing of additives and keep your levels more constant. A dosing pump can alleviate the chore of manually dosing your aquarium with Ca, Alk, & Mg 2,3, or 4 times per week and will benefit your aquarium by keeping your levels constant through frequent small additions of Ca, Alk, & Mg. Our tanks all progressed when we switched from 3 manual dosings per week to 70 automatic dosings per week and we got a lot more work done.
Red Banded Pistol Shrimp
Sold Out - $ 29.99
How to Care for Red Banded Pistol Shrimp
written by Dave Burr
The Red Banded Pistol Shrimp has a specialized claw that creates a loud clicking noise when it is open or closed. You can hear this noise from outside the aquarium if you listen closely. The Red Banded Pistol Shrimp uses this claw to ward off predators and knock over potential prey.
Symbiotic Relationship: Pistol Shrimp will often share a burrow with Shrimp Gobies from the genera Stonogobiops or Amblyeleotris. Sutiable Shrimp Gobies include: Yasha Goby, Randall's Goby, Yellow Watchman Goby, and Hi Fin Red Banded Goby.
Predators: Triggers, larger Hawkfish, Groupers, Lionfish, and large predatory Wrasses may eat Red Banded Pistol Shrimp. They are best kept with reef safe fish.
Feeding: Offer the Red Banded Pistol Shrimp small pieces of meaty foods.
Growth: Maintaining proper pH, Ca, Alk, & Mg levels is important for shrimp. Providing additions of iodine will help the shrimp to molt and grow.
Acclimation: Take the time to do a drip acclimation with any shrimp as they do not tolerate rapid changes in water chemistry very well.
Care Level: Easy
Reef Compatible: Yes
Diet: Carnivore
Range: Indo-Pacific
Family: Alpheidae
Water Conditions: 75-80° F; sg 1.024-1.026 (1.025 is ideal); pH 8.1-8.4 Ca 420-440 ppm, Alk 8-9.5 dKH, Mg 1260-1350, Nitrates <10ppm, Phosphates < .10ppm
Water Chemistry: It is important that proper calcium (420-440 ppm), alkalinity (8-9.5 dkh - run it 7-8 if you are carbon dosing) , and magnesium levels (1260-1350 ppm) are maintained. Raising magnesium levels gradually up to 1400-1600 ppm can help to combat algae outbreaks, just keep CA and Alk in line as you raise the Mg. Nitrates should be below 10 ppm and phosphates should be below .10 ppm. We recommend doing a water change when Nitrate levels rise to 10 ppm. It is important to replace your phosphate media when phosphates rise to .10 ppm. Media Reactors make the most efficient use of your phosphate media by fluidizing it.
Dosing: Vivid Aquariums uses and recommends dosing pumps to automate the dosing of additives and keep your levels more constant. A dosing pump can alleviate the chore of manually dosing your aquarium with Ca, Alk, & Mg 2,3, or 4 times per week and will benefit your aquarium by keeping your levels constant through frequent small additions of Ca, Alk, & Mg. Our tanks all progressed when we switched from 3 manual dosings per week to 70 automatic dosings per week and we got a lot more work done.
Feeding: Offer the Red Banded Pistol Shrimp small pieces of meaty foods.
Red Fromia Starfish
Sold Out - $ 23.99
How to Care for Red Fromia Starfish
written by Dave Burr
The Red Fromia Starfish provides a burst of color to the reef as it forages over the rocks grazing on algae and eating bits of detritus. More than one individual may be kept in larger aquariums of 80 gallons or more. Maintaining proper pH, Ca, Alk, & Mg levels is important for starfish.
Feeding: Provide the Red Fromia Starfish with bits of meaty foods such as mysis shrimp, or chopped shrimp, or silversides. It will also scavenge the aquarium for bits of food missed by the fish.
Acclimation: Take the time to do a drip acclimation with any starfish as they do not tolerate rapid changes in water chemistry very well.
Care Level: Moderate
Reef Compatible: Yes
Diet: Omnivore
Range: Indo Pacific, Fiji, Sri Lanka
Family: Ophidiasteridae
Water Conditions: 75-80° F; sg 1.024-1.026 (1.025 is ideal); pH 8.1-8.4 Ca 420-440 ppm, Alk 8-9.5 dKH, Mg 1260-1350, Nitrates <10ppm, Phosphates < .10ppm
Water Chemistry: It is important that proper calcium (420-440 ppm), alkalinity (8-9.5 dkh - run it 7-8 if you are carbon dosing) , and magnesium levels (1260-1350 ppm) are maintained. Raising magnesium levels gradually up to 1400-1600 ppm can help to combat algae outbreaks, just keep CA and Alk in line as you raise the Mg. Nitrates should be below 10 ppm and phosphates should be below .10 ppm. We recommend doing a water change when Nitrate levels rise to 10 ppm. It is important to replace your phosphate media when phosphates rise to .10 ppm. Media Reactors make the most efficient use of your phosphate media by fluidizing it.
Dosing: Vivid Aquariums uses and recommends dosing pumps to automate the dosing of additives and keep your levels more constant. A dosing pump can alleviate the chore of manually dosing your aquarium with Ca, Alk, & Mg 2,3, or 4 times per week and will benefit your aquarium by keeping your levels constant through frequent small additions of Ca, Alk, & Mg. Our tanks all progressed when we switched from 3 manual dosings per week to 70 automatic dosings per week and we got a lot more work done.
Rose Bubble Tip Anemone
$ 299.99
How to Care for Rose Bubble Tip Anemone
written by Dave Burr
The Rose Bubble Tip Anemone, or Rose Anemone, is a rare color morph of the Bubble Tip Anemone. If you have never kept an anemone before, the Rose Bubble Tip Anemone is your best choice. These beautiful anemones are much easier to keep than any other anemone we sell. Although all anemones can move around the aquarium, Rose Anemones seem to stay put much better than other anemones. They prefer to anchor their column, or foot, on the rock rather than the sand.
Behavior: The Rose Anemone will host a wide variety of clownfish including Ocellaris, Percula, Maroon, and Gold Maroon Clownfish. Keeping the anemone with a clownfish will help it acclimate faster since the clownfish will feed it scraps of food.
Tip: Do not try to move the anemone once anchored because its column, or foot, can be easily torn. Most anemones will die from a torn column. Be prepared to move corals out of its way if it should choose to anchor too close to them.
Gloves: We recommend wearing gloves when handling Anemones. When placing the anemone, try to support it from its slippery underside. Do not use tongs, and do not touch this anemone with bare hands.
Placement: Turn down the flow and place the Rose Bubble Tip Anemone in a crevice in the rock. After it has attached you may increase the flow again. Try to minimize handling and support it by its slippery foot as much as possible. Leave 3"-5" between the anemone and nearby corals. Remember that it may or may not choose to stay where you place it. If it moves to a different spot be prepared to move corals out of its way. It will not sting and kill corals instantly but they should be moved away within 12-24 hours. If a Bubble Tip Anemone anchors where you don't want it to try adjusting the direction of flow in the aquarium to cause it to release and re-attach elsewhere.
Feeding: Feed large pieces of silverside, squid, shrimp, and other meaty foods several times a week. Use a feeder stick and touch the piece of food against the anemone. Its sticky tentacles will grab onto the food. Be careful not to poke the anemone.
Lighting & Flow Requirements:
The Bubble Tip Anemone requires moderate water flow and moderate to high lighting (PAR 220-350). T5's, Metal Halides, or LED's can all maintain Bubble Tip Anemones when the proper PAR levels are provided. We recommend a 14-20K color spectrum for best coloration.
Care Level: Easy
Lighting Requirements: Moderate to high (PAR 220-350)
Water Flow: Moderate
Aggressiveness: Aggressive
Range: Fiji, Tonga, Indo-Pacific
Family: Actiniidae
Water Conditions: 75-80° F; sg 1.024-1.026 (1.025 is ideal); pH 8.1-8.4 Ca 420-440 ppm, Alk 8-9.5 dKH, Mg 1260-1350, Nitrates <10ppm, Phosphates, < .10ppm
Water Chemistry: It is important that proper calcium (420-440 ppm), alkalinity (8-9.5 dkh - run it 7-8 if you are carbon dosing) , and magnesium levels (1260-1350 ppm) are maintained. Raising magnesium levels gradually up to 1400-1600 ppm can help to combat algae outbreaks, just keep CA and Alk in line as you raise the Mg. Nitrates should be below 10 ppm and phosphates should be below .10 ppm. We recommend doing a water change when Nitrate levels rise to 10 ppm. It is important to replace your phosphate media when phosphates rise to .10 ppm. Media Reactors make the most efficient use of your phosphate media by fluidizing it.
Dosing: Vivid Aquariums uses and recommends dosing pumps to automate the dosing of additives and keep your levels more constant. A dosing pump can alleviate the chore of manually dosing your aquarium with Ca, Alk, & Mg 2,3, or 4 times per week and will benefit your aquarium by keeping your levels constant through frequent small additions of Ca, Alk, & Mg. Our tanks all progressed when we switched from 3 manual dosings per week to 70 automatic dosings per week and we got a lot more work done.
Sally Lightfoot Crab
$ 19.99
How to Care for Sally Lightfoot Crab
written by Dave Burr
The Sally Lightfoot Crab is a superb algae eater. It is very useful in keeping reef aquariums clean and free of undesirable algae.
Behavior: Large specimens can be harmful to small fish and invertebrates although this is less likely if there is sufficient algae for the crab to eat.
Feeding: If no algae is present in the aquarium you may supplement the Sally Lightfoot Crab's diet with live macro algae, dried seaweed (nori), or mysis shrimp.
Growth: Maintaining proper Ca, Alk, & Mg levels is important for growth of their shells.
Tip: Don't forget about your water parameters when combating algae blooms. Water chemistry is every bit as important as a good clean-up crew.
Care Level: Easy
Reef Compatible: Yes
Diet: Omnivore, Herbivore
Range: Caribbean, Atlantic
Family: Grapsidae
Water Conditions: 75-80° F; sg 1.024-1.026 (1.025 is ideal); pH 8.1-8.4 Ca 420-440 ppm, Alk 8-9.5 dKH, Mg 1260-1350, Nitrates <10ppm, Phosphates < .10ppm
Water Chemistry: It is important that proper calcium (420-440 ppm), alkalinity (8-9.5 dkh - run it 7-8 if you are carbon dosing) , and magnesium levels (1260-1350 ppm) are maintained. Raising magnesium levels gradually up to 1400-1600 ppm can help to combat algae outbreaks, just keep CA and Alk in line as you raise the Mg. Nitrates should be below 10 ppm and phosphates should be below .10 ppm. We recommend doing a water change when Nitrate levels rise to 10 ppm. It is important to replace your phosphate media when phosphates rise to .10 ppm. Media Reactors make the most efficient use of your phosphate media by fluidizing it.
Dosing: Vivid Aquariums uses and recommends dosing pumps to automate the dosing of additives and keep your levels more constant. A dosing pump can alleviate the chore of manually dosing your aquarium with Ca, Alk, & Mg 2,3, or 4 times per week and will benefit your aquarium by keeping your levels constant through frequent small additions of Ca, Alk, & Mg. Our tanks all progressed when we switched from 3 manual dosings per week to 70 automatic dosings per week and we got a lot more work done.
Sand Sifting Starfish
$ 19.99
How to Care for Sand Sifting Starfish
written by Dave Burr
An important team member of any "Clean Up Crew" the Sand Sifting Starfish will sift through the sand bed eating detritus and leftover scraps of food. Chances are you will not see this starfish often, as it will burrow into the sand to hide or search for food. Nevertheless it is a good choice for any reef aquarium, and will help create a balanced ecosystem and keep your sand looking good.
Feeding: Provide the Sand Sifting Starfish with bits of meaty foods such as mysis shrimp, or chopped shrimp, or silversides. It will also scavenge the aquarium for bits of food missed by the fish.
Acclimation: Maintaining proper pH, Ca, Alk, & Mg levels is important for starfish. Take the time to do a drip acclimation with any starfish as they do not tolerate rapid changes in water chemistry very well.
Care Level: Easy
Reef Compatible: Yes
Diet: Omnivore
Range: Solomon Islands, Fiji
Family: Astropectinidae
Water Conditions: 75-80° F; sg 1.024-1.026 (1.025 is ideal); pH 8.1-8.4 Ca 420-440 ppm, Alk 8-9.5 dKH, Mg 1260-1350, Nitrates <10ppm, Phosphates < .10ppm
Water Chemistry: It is important that proper calcium (420-440 ppm), alkalinity (8-9.5 dkh - run it 7-8 if you are carbon dosing) , and magnesium levels (1260-1350 ppm) are maintained. Raising magnesium levels gradually up to 1400-1600 ppm can help to combat algae outbreaks, just keep CA and Alk in line as you raise the Mg. Nitrates should be below 10 ppm and phosphates should be below .10 ppm. We recommend doing a water change when Nitrate levels rise to 10 ppm. It is important to replace your phosphate media when phosphates rise to .10 ppm. Media Reactors make the most efficient use of your phosphate media by fluidizing it.
Dosing: Vivid Aquariums uses and recommends dosing pumps to automate the dosing of additives and keep your levels more constant. A dosing pump can alleviate the chore of manually dosing your aquarium with Ca, Alk, & Mg 2,3, or 4 times per week and will benefit your aquarium by keeping your levels constant through frequent small additions of Ca, Alk, & Mg. Our tanks all progressed when we switched from 3 manual dosings per week to 70 automatic dosings per week and we got a lot more work done.
Scarlet Reef Hermit Crab
$ 6.99
How to Care for Scarlet Reef Hermit Crab
written by Dave Burr
The Scarlet Reef Hermit Crab is a superb algae eater, and will even eat filamentous algae and cyanobacteria. It is very useful in keeping reef aquariums clean and free of undesirable algae.
Growth: As the Scarlet Reef Hermit Crab grows they will need larger shells to take the place of the shell they outgrew. Place several old snail shells in the aquarium where the Scarlet Reef Hermit Crab can get to them when the time comes to move to a larger shell.
Feeding: If no algae is present in the aquarium you may supplement the Scarlet Reef Hermit Crabs' diet with live macro algae, dried seaweed (nori), and mysis shrimp.
Tip: Don't forget about your water parameters when combating algae blooms. Water chemistry is every bit as important as a good clean-up crew.
Care Level: Easy
Reef Compatible: Yes
Diet: Herbivore, Omnivore
Range: Indo-Pacific
Family: Diogenidae
Water Conditions: 75-80° F; sg 1.024-1.026 (1.025 is ideal); pH 8.1-8.4 Ca 420-440 ppm, Alk 8-9.5 dKH, Mg 1260-1350, Nitrates <10ppm, Phosphates < .10ppm
Water Chemistry: It is important that proper calcium (420-440 ppm), alkalinity (8-9.5 dkh - run it 7-8 if you are carbon dosing) , and magnesium levels (1260-1350 ppm) are maintained. Raising magnesium levels gradually up to 1400-1600 ppm can help to combat algae outbreaks, just keep CA and Alk in line as you raise the Mg. Nitrates should be below 10 ppm and phosphates should be below .10 ppm. We recommend doing a water change when Nitrate levels rise to 10 ppm. It is important to replace your phosphate media when phosphates rise to .10 ppm. Media Reactors make the most efficient use of your phosphate media by fluidizing it.
Dosing: Vivid Aquariums uses and recommends dosing pumps to automate the dosing of additives and keep your levels more constant. A dosing pump can alleviate the chore of manually dosing your aquarium with Ca, Alk, & Mg 2,3, or 4 times per week and will benefit your aquarium by keeping your levels constant through frequent small additions of Ca, Alk, & Mg. Our tanks all progressed when we switched from 3 manual dosings per week to 70 automatic dosings per week and we got a lot more work done.
Sexy Shrimp
$ 19.99
How to Care for Sexy Shrimp
written by Dave Burr
Sexy Shrimp acquired their name because of how they wave their abdomens back and forth. They are great in reef aquariums and do best if kept in groups of three or more individuals. They can often be found perching on the tentacles of anemones or LPS corals.
Predators: Triggers, larger Hawkfish, Groupers, Lionfish, and large predatory Wrasses may eat Sexy Shrimp. They are best kept with smaller reef safe fish.
Feeding: Target feed a varied diet of plankton and small pieces of meaty foods.
Growth: Maintaining proper pH, Ca, Alk, & Mg levels is important for shrimp. Providing additions of iodine will help the shrimp to molt and grow.
Acclimation: Take the time to do a drip acclimation with any shrimp as they do not tolerate rapid changes in water chemistry very well.
Care Level: Easy
Reef Compatible: Yes
Diet: Carnivore
Range: Indo-Pacific
Family: Hippolytidae
Water Conditions: 75-80° F; sg 1.024-1.026 (1.025 is ideal); pH 8.1-8.4 Ca 420-440 ppm, Alk 8-9.5 dKH, Mg 1260-1350, Nitrates <10ppm, Phosphates < .10ppm
Water Chemistry: It is important that proper calcium (420-440 ppm), alkalinity (8-9.5 dkh - run it 7-8 if you are carbon dosing) , and magnesium levels (1260-1350 ppm) are maintained. Raising magnesium levels gradually up to 1400-1600 ppm can help to combat algae outbreaks, just keep CA and Alk in line as you raise the Mg. Nitrates should be below 10 ppm and phosphates should be below .10 ppm. We recommend doing a water change when Nitrate levels rise to 10 ppm. It is important to replace your phosphate media when phosphates rise to .10 ppm. Media Reactors make the most efficient use of your phosphate media by fluidizing it.
Dosing: Vivid Aquariums uses and recommends dosing pumps to automate the dosing of additives and keep your levels more constant. A dosing pump can alleviate the chore of manually dosing your aquarium with Ca, Alk, & Mg 2,3, or 4 times per week and will benefit your aquarium by keeping your levels constant through frequent small additions of Ca, Alk, & Mg. Our tanks all progressed when we switched from 3 manual dosings per week to 70 automatic dosings per week and we got a lot more work done.
Spiny Sea Cucumber
Sold Out - $ 19.99
How to Care for Spiny Sea Cucumber
written by Dave Burr
A colorful and bizarre addition to any reef aquarium, the Spiny Sea Cucumber can live for many years in the home aquarium. The Spiny Sea Cucumber uses its oral tentacles to catch food that floats by. As each tentacle becomes full of food it draws its entire tentacle into its mouth. The Spiny Sea Cucumber should be target feed fed foods for filter feeders including marine snow, phytoplankton, and zooplankton.
Behavior: It will move around the aquarium until it finds an area with a good current where it can filter plenty of food. Once it finds a desirable spot it may stay there for many months.
Feeding:
The Spiny Sea Cucumber should be target fed foods for filter feeders including marine snow, phytoplankton, and zooplankton. If not properly fed, the body of the Spiny Sea Cucumber will slowly begin to shrink. Try creating a storm in your aquarium using a turkey baster to blow jets of water into the dead spots of the aquarium to stir up the detritus. Then sit back and watch as it feeds on bits of detritus that float by.
CAUTION! When harassed, and upon death, the Spiny Sea Cucumber may release toxins that could kill fish in the aquarium. Do not house with butterflyfish, large angelfish, or other fish that are not safe with invertebrates. If you observe a fish picking at it, remove the fish or the Spiny Sea Cucumber immediately to a separate tank.
Tip: The Spiny Sea Cucumber can be harmed by the intakes of any pumps or powerheads in the aquarium, so make sure to protect all intakes to prevent the Spiny Sea Cucumber from being sucked in.
Vivid Aquariums cannot accept any responsibility for any losses that may occur should the Spiny Sea Cucumber poison the aquarium. Instances of Spiny Sea Cucumber's causing death in reef aquariums are very rare but it can happen. It’s a gamble- you choose to roll the dice, or not.
Care Level: Moderate
Reef Compatible: Yes
Diet: Filter Feeder
Range: Indo Pacific
Family: Holothuriidae
Water Conditions: 75-80° F; sg 1.024-1.026 (1.025 is ideal); pH 8.1-8.4 Ca 420-440 ppm, Alk 8-9.5 dKH, Mg 1260-1350, Nitrates <10ppm, Phosphates < .10ppm
Water Chemistry: It is important that proper calcium (420-440 ppm), alkalinity (8-9.5 dkh - run it 7-8 if you are carbon dosing) , and magnesium levels (1260-1350 ppm) are maintained. Raising magnesium levels gradually up to 1400-1600 ppm can help to combat algae outbreaks, just keep CA and Alk in line as you raise the Mg. Nitrates should be below 10 ppm and phosphates should be below .10 ppm. We recommend doing a water change when Nitrate levels rise to 10 ppm. It is important to replace your phosphate media when phosphates rise to .10 ppm. Media Reactors make the most efficient use of your phosphate media by fluidizing it.
Dosing: Vivid Aquariums uses and recommends dosing pumps to automate the dosing of additives and keep your levels more constant. A dosing pump can alleviate the chore of manually dosing your aquarium with Ca, Alk, & Mg 2,3, or 4 times per week and will benefit your aquarium by keeping your levels constant through frequent small additions of Ca, Alk, & Mg. Our tanks all progressed when we switched from 3 manual dosings per week to 70 automatic dosings per week and we got a lot more work done.
Video
Tiger Pistol Shrimp
$ 32.99
How to Care for Tiger Pistol Shrimp
written by Dave Burr
The Tiger Pistol Shrimp has a specialized claw that creates a loud clicking noise when it is open or closed. You can hear this noise from outside the aquarium if you listen closely. The Tiger Pistol Shrimp uses this claw to ward off predators and knock over potential prey.
Symbiotic Relationship: Pistol Shrimp will often share a burrow with Shrimp Gobies from the genera Stonogobiops or Amblyeleotris. Sutiable Shrimp Gobies include: Yasha Goby, Randall's Goby, Yellow Watchman Goby, and Hi Fin Red Banded Goby. We offer several shrimp / goby pairs for sale under our gobies page and shrimp page.
Predators: Triggers, larger Hawkfish, Groupers, Lionfish, and large predatory Wrasses may eat Tiger Pistol Shrimp. They are best kept with reef safe fish.
Feeding: Offer the Tiger Pistol Shrimp small pieces of meaty foods.
Growth: Maintaining proper pH, Ca, Alk, & Mg levels is important for shrimp. Providing additions of iodine will help the shrimp to molt and grow.
Acclimation: Take the time to do a drip acclimation with any shrimp as they do not tolerate rapid changes in water chemistry very well.
Care Level: Easy
Reef Compatible: Yes
Diet: Carnivore
Range: Indo-Pacific, Sri Lanka
Family: Alpheidae
Water Conditions: 75-80° F; sg 1.024-1.026 (1.025 is ideal); pH 8.1-8.4 Ca 420-440 ppm, Alk 8-9.5 dKH, Mg 1260-1350, Nitrates <10ppm, Phosphates < .10ppm
Water Chemistry: It is important that proper calcium (420-440 ppm), alkalinity (8-9.5 dkh - run it 7-8 if you are carbon dosing) , and magnesium levels (1260-1350 ppm) are maintained. Raising magnesium levels gradually up to 1400-1600 ppm can help to combat algae outbreaks, just keep CA and Alk in line as you raise the Mg. Nitrates should be below 10 ppm and phosphates should be below .10 ppm. We recommend doing a water change when Nitrate levels rise to 10 ppm. It is important to replace your phosphate media when phosphates rise to .10 ppm. Media Reactors make the most efficient use of your phosphate media by fluidizing it.
Dosing: Vivid Aquariums uses and recommends dosing pumps to automate the dosing of additives and keep your levels more constant. A dosing pump can alleviate the chore of manually dosing your aquarium with Ca, Alk, & Mg 2,3, or 4 times per week and will benefit your aquarium by keeping your levels constant through frequent small additions of Ca, Alk, & Mg. Our tanks all progressed when we switched from 3 manual dosings per week to 70 automatic dosings per week and we got a lot more work done.
Tiger Tail Cucumber
$ 39.99
How to Care for Tiger Tail Cucumber
written by Dave Burr
What the Tiger Tail Cucumber lacks in beauty, it makes up for in cleaning power.
Behavior: The Tiger Tail Cucumber is a great “housekeeper” for the reef aquarium. It eats detritus, diatoms, and scraps of meaty foods from the sand that passes through its body. One Tiger Tail Cucumber is sufficient for a 60 gallon aquarium.
Feeding: Provide the Tiger Tail Cucumber with plenty of sand bed to sift through. It will scavenge scraps of meaty foods left over by fish.
Tip: Do not keep with aggressive fishes that are not safe with invertebrates. Also make sure to protect it from being sucked into an overflow box or pump intake. It does have the ability to release toxins into the aquarium that could poison fish although it is extremely unlikely.
Reproduction: The Tiger Tail Cucumber can reproduce by fission (one individual splits into two), and can live for several years in the home aquarium.
Acclimation: Maintaining proper pH, Ca, Alk, & Mg levels is important for cucumbers. Take the time to do a drip acclimation with any cucumber as they do not tolerate rapid changes in water chemistry very well.
Care Level: Easy
Reef Compatible: Yes
Diet: Omnivore
Range: Indo Pacific
Family: Holothuridae
Water Conditions: 75-80° F; sg 1.024-1.026 (1.025 is ideal); pH 8.1-8.4 Ca 420-440 ppm, Alk 8-9.5 dKH, Mg 1260-1350, Nitrates <10ppm, Phosphates < .10ppm
Water Chemistry: It is important that proper calcium (420-440 ppm), alkalinity (8-9.5 dkh - run it 7-8 if you are carbon dosing) , and magnesium levels (1260-1350 ppm) are maintained. Raising magnesium levels gradually up to 1400-1600 ppm can help to combat algae outbreaks, just keep CA and Alk in line as you raise the Mg. Nitrates should be below 10 ppm and phosphates should be below .10 ppm. We recommend doing a water change when Nitrate levels rise to 10 ppm. It is important to replace your phosphate media when phosphates rise to .10 ppm. Media Reactors make the most efficient use of your phosphate media by fluidizing it.
Dosing: Vivid Aquariums uses and recommends dosing pumps to automate the dosing of additives and keep your levels more constant. A dosing pump can alleviate the chore of manually dosing your aquarium with Ca, Alk, & Mg 2,3, or 4 times per week and will benefit your aquarium by keeping your levels constant through frequent small additions of Ca, Alk, & Mg. Our tanks all progressed when we switched from 3 manual dosings per week to 70 automatic dosings per week and we got a lot more work done.
Tonga Fighting Conch
$ 11.99
How to Care for Tonga Fighting Conch
written by Dave Burr
Tonga Conchs are very useful in aquariums because eat detritus, or waste, and keep the sandbed stirred. Tonga Conchs will clean cyanobacteria, diatom algae, and hair algae from the sandbed. They are an important part of any reef aquarium. Tonga Conchs will also eat any excess food that the fish do not eat.
Feeding: If no algae is present in the aquarium you may supplement the Tonga Fighting Conchs' diet with live macro algae or dried seaweed (nori).
Growth: Maintaining proper Ca, Alk, & Mg levels is important for growth of their shells.
Tip: Don't forget about your water parameters when combating algae blooms. Water chemistry is every bit as important as a good clean-up crew.
Care Level: Easy
Reef Compatible: Yes
Diet: Detritus, omnivore
Range: Circumtropical
Family: Strombidae
Water Conditions: 75-80° F; sg 1.024-1.026 (1.025 is ideal); pH 8.1-8.4 Ca 420-440 ppm, Alk 8-9.5 dKH, Mg 1260-1350, Nitrates <10ppm, Phosphates < .10ppm
Water Chemistry: It is important that proper calcium (420-440 ppm), alkalinity (8-9.5 dkh - run it 7-8 if you are carbon dosing) , and magnesium levels (1260-1350 ppm) are maintained. Raising magnesium levels gradually up to 1400-1600 ppm can help to combat algae outbreaks, just keep CA and Alk in line as you raise the Mg. Nitrates should be below 10 ppm and phosphates should be below .10 ppm. We recommend doing a water change when Nitrate levels rise to 10 ppm. It is important to replace your phosphate media when phosphates rise to .10 ppm. Media Reactors make the most efficient use of your phosphate media by fluidizing it.
Dosing: Vivid Aquariums uses and recommends dosing pumps to automate the dosing of additives and keep your levels more constant. A dosing pump can alleviate the chore of manually dosing your aquarium with Ca, Alk, & Mg 2,3, or 4 times per week and will benefit your aquarium by keeping your levels constant through frequent small additions of Ca, Alk, & Mg. Our tanks all progressed when we switched from 3 manual dosings per week to 70 automatic dosings per week and we got a lot more work done.
Trochus Snail
$ 4.99
How to Care for Trochus Snail
written by Dave Burr
Trochus Snails are very effective at controlling the growth of undesirable algae in aquariums. They will eat algae off of the rocks and aquarium glass. They are one of the better snails when it comes to flipping themselves back over after a fall.
Feeding: If no algae is present in the aquarium you may supplement the Trochus Snails' diet with live macro algae or dried seaweed (nori).
Growth: Maintaining proper Ca, Alk, & Mg levels is important for growth of their shells.
Tip: Don't forget about your water parameters when combating algae blooms. Water chemistry is every bit as important as a good clean-up crew.
Care Level: Easy
Reef Compatible: Yes
Diet: Herbivore
Range: Indonesia
Family: Trochidae
Water Conditions: 75-80° F; sg 1.024-1.026 (1.025 is ideal); pH 8.1-8.4 Ca 420-440 ppm, Alk 8-9.5 dKH, Mg 1260-1350, Nitrates <10ppm, Phosphates < .10ppm
Water Chemistry: It is important that proper calcium (420-440 ppm), alkalinity (8-9.5 dkh - run it 7-8 if you are carbon dosing) , and magnesium levels (1260-1350 ppm) are maintained. Raising magnesium levels gradually up to 1400-1600 ppm can help to combat algae outbreaks, just keep CA and Alk in line as you raise the Mg. Nitrates should be below 10 ppm and phosphates should be below .10 ppm. We recommend doing a water change when Nitrate levels rise to 10 ppm. It is important to replace your phosphate media when phosphates rise to .10 ppm. Media Reactors make the most efficient use of your phosphate media by fluidizing it.
Dosing: Vivid Aquariums uses and recommends dosing pumps to automate the dosing of additives and keep your levels more constant. A dosing pump can alleviate the chore of manually dosing your aquarium with Ca, Alk, & Mg 2,3, or 4 times per week and will benefit your aquarium by keeping your levels constant through frequent small additions of Ca, Alk, & Mg. Our tanks all progressed when we switched from 3 manual dosings per week to 70 automatic dosings per week and we got a lot more work done.
Turbo Grazer Snail
$ 2.99
How to Care for Turbo Grazer Snail
written by Dave Burr
Turbo Snails are very effective at controlling the growth of undesirable algae in aquariums. They will eat algae off of the rocks and aquarium glass.
Feeding: If no algae is present in the aquarium you may supplement the Astrea Snails diet with live macro algae or dried seaweed (nori).
Growth: Maintaining proper Ca, Alk, & Mg levels is important for growth of their shells.
Don't forget about your water parameters when combating algae blooms. Water chemistry is every bit as important as a good clean-up crew.
Care Level: Easy
Reef Compatible: Yes
Diet: Herbivore
Range: Mexico
Family: Turbinidae
Water Conditions: 75-80° F; sg 1.024-1.026 (1.025 is ideal); pH 8.1-8.4 Ca 420-440 ppm, Alk 8-9.5 dKH, Mg 1260-1350, Nitrates <10ppm, Phosphates, < .10ppm
Water Chemistry:
It is important that proper calcium (420-440 ppm), alkalinity (8-9.5 dkh - run it 7-8 if you are carbon dosing) , and magnesium levels (1260-1350 ppm) are maintained. Raising magnesium levels gradually up to 1400-1600 ppm can help to combat algae outbreaks, just keep CA and Alk in line as you raise the Mg. Nitrates should be below 10 ppm and phosphates should be below .10 ppm. We recommend doing a water change when Nitrate levels rise to 10 ppm. It is important to replace your phosphate media when phosphates rise to .10 ppm. Media Reactors make the most efficient use of your phosphate media by fluidizing it.
Dosing: Vivid Aquariums uses and recommends dosing pumps to automate the dosing of additives and keep your levels more constant. A dosing pump can alleviate the chore of manually dosing your aquarium with Ca, Alk, & Mg 2,3, or 4 times per week and will benefit your aquarium by keeping your levels constant through frequent small additions of Ca, Alk, & Mg. Our tanks all progressed when we switched from 3 manual dosings per week to 70 automatic dosings per week and we got a lot more work done.
Yellow Cucumber
$ 16.99
How to Care for Yellow Cucumber
written by Dave Burr
A colorful and bizarre addition to any reef aquarium, the Yellow Cucumber can live for many years in the home aquarium. The Yellow Cucumber uses its oral tentacles to catch food that floats by. As each tentacle becomes full of food it draws its entire tentacle into its mouth. The Yellow Cucumber should be target feed fed foods for filter feeders including marine snow, phytoplankton, and zooplankton.
Behavior: It will move around the aquarium until it finds an area with a good current where it can filter plenty of food. Once it finds a desirable spot it may stay there for many months.
Feeding: The Yellow Cucumber should be target fed foods for filter feeders including marine snow, phytoplankton, and zooplankton. If not properly fed, the body of the Yellow Cucumber will slowly begin to shrink. Try creating a storm in your aquarium using a turkey baster to blow jets of water into the dead spots of the aquarium to stir up the detritus. Then sit back and watch as it feeds on bits of detritus that float by.
CAUTION! When harassed, and upon death, the Yellow Cucumber may release toxins that could kill fish in the aquarium. Do not house with butterflyfish, large angelfish, or other fish that are not safe with invertebrates. If you observe a fish picking at it, remove the fish or the Yellow Cucumber immediately to a separate tank.
Tip: The Yellow Cucumber can be harmed by the intakes of any pumps or powerheads in the aquarium, so make sure to protect all intakes to prevent the Yellow Cucumber from being sucked in.
Vivid Aquariums cannot accept any responsibility for any losses that may occur should the Yellow Cucumber poison the aquarium. Instances of Yellow Cucumber's causing death in reef aquariums are very rare but it can happen. It’s a gamble - you choose to roll the dice, or not.
Care Level: Moderate
Reef Compatible: Yes
Diet: Filter Feeder
Range: Indian Ocean
Family: Cucumariidae
Water Conditions: 75-80° F; sg 1.024-1.026 (1.025 is ideal); pH 8.1-8.4 Ca 420-440 ppm, Alk 8-9.5 dKH, Mg 1260-1350, Nitrates <10ppm, Phosphates < .10ppm
Water Chemistry: It is important that proper calcium (420-440 ppm), alkalinity (8-9.5 dkh - run it 7-8 if you are carbon dosing) , and magnesium levels (1260-1350 ppm) are maintained. Raising magnesium levels gradually up to 1400-1600 ppm can help to combat algae outbreaks, just keep CA and Alk in line as you raise the Mg. Nitrates should be below 10 ppm and phosphates should be below .10 ppm. We recommend doing a water change when Nitrate levels rise to 10 ppm. It is important to replace your phosphate media when phosphates rise to .10 ppm. Media Reactors make the most efficient use of your phosphate media by fluidizing it.
Dosing: Vivid Aquariums uses and recommends dosing pumps to automate the dosing of additives and keep your levels more constant. A dosing pump can aleviate the chore of manually dosing your aquarium with Ca, Alk, & Mg 2,3, or 4 times per week and will benefit your aquarium by keeping your levels constant through frequent small additions of Ca, Alk, & Mg. Our tanks all progressed when we switched from 3 manual dosings per week to 70 automatic dosings per week and we got a lot more work done.