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Astrea Snail
$ 3.49
How to Care for Astrea Snail
written by Dave Burr
Astrea Snails are very effective at controlling the growth of undesirable algae in aquariums. They are a good choice to combat cyanobacteria and diatom algae. Astrea Snails can even help to control nussiance hair algae. They will scavenge the rocks and aquarium glass.
Feeding: If no algae is present in the aquarium you may supplement the Astrea Snails diet with live macro algae or dried seaweed (nori).
Growth: Maintaining proper Ca, Alk, & Mg levels is important for growth of their shells.
Tip: Don't forget about your water parameters when combating algae blooms. Water chemistry is every bit as important as a good clean-up crew.
Care Level: Easy
Reef Compatible: Yes
Diet: Herbivore
Range: Circumtropical
Family: Astraeinae
Water Conditions: 75-80° F; sg 1.024-1.026 (1.025 is ideal); pH 8.1-8.4 Ca 420-440 ppm, Alk 8-9.5 dKH, Mg 1260-1350, Nitrates <10ppm, Phosphates, < .10ppm
Water Chemistry: It is important that proper calcium (420-440 ppm), alkalinity (8-9.5 dkh - run it 7-8 if you are carbon dosing) , and magnesium levels (1260-1350 ppm) are maintained. Raising magnesium levels gradually up to 1400-1600 ppm can help to combat algae outbreaks, just keep CA and Alk in line as you raise the Mg. Nitrates should be below 10 ppm and phosphates should be below .10 ppm. We recommend doing a water change when Nitrate levels rise to 10 ppm. It is important to replace your phosphate media when phosphates rise to .10 ppm. Media Reactors make the most efficient use of your phosphate media by fluidizing it.
Dosing: Vivid Aquariums uses and recommends dosing pumps to automate the dosing of additives and keep your levels more constant. A dosing pump can alleviate the chore of manually dosing your aquarium with Ca, Alk, & Mg 2,3, or 4 times per week and will benefit your aquarium by keeping your levels constant through frequent small additions of Ca, Alk, & Mg. Our tanks all progressed when we switched from 3 manual dosings per week to 70 automatic dosings per week and we got a lot more work done.
BSI Inc IC Gel
$ 6.99
- We use IC Gel super glue here at Vivid Aquariums to mount frags!
- IC Gel will bond underwater.
- IC Gel is safe for your reef and will not release toxins into the aquarium.
When mounting frags onto rocks underwater:
1. Place a dab of glue on the base of the frag.
2. Dip the frag quickly into the water to create a glue bubble.
3. Remove the frag from the water and use a toothpick to pop and stir the glue bubble.
4. Place the frag into the aquarium pushing the stirred glue bubble against the live rock.
5. Hold the coral in place against the live rock for 30-40 seconds.
Bumble Bee Snail
$ 2.99
How to Care for Bumble Bee Snail
written by Dave Burr
Bumble Bee Snails will burrow through the sand looking for detritus and small worms. They will forage around the live rock as well eating bits of leftover food as they go.
Feeding: You may supplement the Bumble Bee Snails' diet with mysis shrimp or small bits of meaty food.
Growth: Maintaining proper Ca, Alk, & Mg levels is important for growth of their shells.
Tip: Don't forget about your water parameters when combating algae blooms. Water chemistry is every bit as important as a good clean-up crew.
Care Level: Easy
Reef Compatible: Yes
Diet: Carnivore, Detritus, Omnivore
Range: Indo-Pacific
Family: Buccinidae
Water Conditions: 75-80° F; sg 1.024-1.026 (1.025 is ideal); pH 8.1-8.4 Ca 420-440 ppm, Alk 8-9.5 dKH, Mg 1260-1350, Nitrates <10ppm, Phosphates < .10ppm
Water Chemistry: It is important that proper calcium (420-440 ppm), alkalinity (8-9.5 dkh - run it 7-8 if you are carbon dosing) , and magnesium levels (1260-1350 ppm) are maintained. Raising magnesium levels gradually up to 1400-1600 ppm can help to combat algae outbreaks, just keep CA and Alk in line as you raise the Mg. Nitrates should be below 10 ppm and phosphates should be below .10 ppm. We recommend doing a water change when Nitrate levels rise to 10 ppm. It is important to replace your phosphate media when phosphates rise to .10 ppm. Media Reactors make the most efficient use of your phosphate media by fluidizing it.
Dosing: Vivid Aquariums uses and recommends dosing pumps to automate the dosing of additives and keep your levels more constant. A dosing pump can alleviate the chore of manually dosing your aquarium with Ca, Alk, & Mg 2,3, or 4 times per week and will benefit your aquarium by keeping your levels constant through frequent small additions of Ca, Alk, & Mg. Our tanks all progressed when we switched from 3 manual dosings per week to 70 automatic dosings per week and we got a lot more work done.
Chiquita Zoas
Sold Out - $ 4.99 $ 19.99
This is a WYSIWYG (What You See Is What You Get) coral.
We strive to make our pictures as accurate as possible to the true color of the coral.
Emerald Crab
$ 8.99 $ 9.99
How to Care for Emerald Crabs
written by Dave Burr
The Emerald Crab is a superb algae eater, and probably one of the very best at cleaning eating bubble algae. It is very useful in keeping reef aquariums clean.
Behavior: Large specimens can be harmful to small fish and invertebrates although this is less likely if there is sufficient algae for the crab to eat.
Growth: Maintaining proper Ca, Alk, & Mg levels is important for growth of their shells.
Feeding: If no algae is present in the aquarium you may supplement the Emerald Crab's diet with live macro algae, dried seaweed (nori), or mysis shrimp.
Tip: Don't forget about your water parameters when combating algae blooms. Water chemistry is every bit as important as a good clean-up crew.
Care Level: Easy
Reef Compatible: Yes
Diet: Omnivore, Herbivore
Range: Caribbean, Atlantic
Family: Majidae
Water Conditions: 75-80° F; sg 1.024-1.026 (1.025 is ideal); pH 8.1-8.4 Ca 420-440 ppm, Alk 8-9.5 dKH, Mg 1260-1350, Nitrates <10ppm, Phosphates < .10ppm
Water Chemistry: It is important that proper calcium (420-440 ppm), alkalinity (8-9.5 dkh - run it 7-8 if you are carbon dosing) , and magnesium levels (1260-1350 ppm) are maintained. Raising magnesium levels gradually up to 1400-1600 ppm can help to combat algae outbreaks, just keep CA and Alk in line as you raise the Mg. Nitrates should be below 10 ppm and phosphates should be below .10 ppm. We recommend doing a water change when Nitrate levels rise to 10 ppm. It is important to replace your phosphate media when phosphates rise to .10 ppm. Media Reactors make the most efficient use of your phosphate media by fluidizing it.
Dosing: Vivid Aquariums uses and recommends dosing pumps to automate the dosing of additives and keep your levels more constant. A dosing pump can alleviate the chore of manually dosing your aquarium with Ca, Alk, & Mg 2,3, or 4 times per week and will benefit your aquarium by keeping your levels constant through frequent small additions of Ca, Alk, & Mg. Our tanks all progressed when we switched from 3 manual dosings per week to 70 automatic dosings per week and we got a lot more work done.
Green Flash Zoanthid Coral
$ 9.99 $ 19.99
How to Care for Green Flash Zoanthids
written by Dave Burr
Green Flash Zoanthids are easy to keep and are a great choice for the beginner. Zoanthids and Palythoa will grow and reproduce by budding.
Placement: Mount the Green Flash Zoanthids using IC gel glue, or putty, on an exposed rock lower in the aquarium where they will receive direct flow and light. If you do not want them growing on your your main rock structure, try creating a Zoanthid island by mounting several types of Zoanthids and Palythoa to one larger rock and placing it as an island in your sand bed.
Feeding: Although symbiotic algae called zooxanthellae hosted within them supply most of their nutritional requirements through photosynthesis, they do benefit from supplemental feedings of Oyster-Feast, Roti-Feast, cyclopeeze, & sometimes small bits of mini mysis. Target feeding gets the corals fed using less food while keeping your nitrates and phosphates lower.
Lighting & Flow Requirements: Green Flash Zoanthids require moderate water flow and low to moderate lighting (PAR 100-250) to maintain their color. T5's, Metal Halides, or LED's can all grow Zoanthids and Palythoa when the proper PAR levels are provided. We recommend a 14-20K color spectrum for best coloration.
Care Level: Easy
Lighting Requirements: Low to moderate (PAR 100-250)
Water Flow: Moderate
Aggressiveness: Semi-aggressive
Range: Indo-Pacific
Family: Zoanthidae
Water Conditions: 75-80° F; sg 1.024-1.026 (1.025 is ideal); pH 8.1-8.4 Ca 420-440 ppm, Alk 8-9.5 dKH, Mg 1260-1350, Nitrates <10ppm, Phosphates, < .10ppm
Water Chemistry: It is important that proper calcium (420-440 ppm), alkalinity (8-9.5 dkh - run it 7-8 if you are carbon dosing) , and magnesium levels (1260-1350 ppm) are maintained. Raising magnesium levels gradually up to 1400-1600 ppm can help to combat algae outbreaks, just keep CA and Alk in line as you raise the Mg. Nitrates should be below 10 ppm and phosphates should be below .10 ppm. We recommend doing a water change when Nitrate levels rise to 10 ppm. It is important to replace your phosphate media when phosphates rise to .10 ppm. Media Reactors make the most efficient use of your phosphate media by fluidizing it.
Dosing: Vivid Aquariums uses and recommends dosing pumps to automate the dosing of additives and keep your levels more constant. A dosing pump can alleviate the chore of manually dosing your aquarium with Ca, Alk, & Mg 2,3, or 4 times per week and will benefit your aquarium by keeping your levels constant through frequent small additions of Ca, Alk, & Mg. Our tanks all progressed when we switched from 3 manual dosings per week to 70 automatic dosings per week and we got a lot more work done.
Iron Man Zoanthids
$ 9.99 $ 0.00
How to Care for Orange Bam Bam Zoanthids
written by Dave Burr
Orange Bam Bam Zoanthids are easy to keep and are a great choice for the beginner. Zoanthids and Palythoa will grow and reproduce by budding.
Placement: Mount the Orange Bam Bam Zoanthids using IC gel glue, or putty, on an exposed rock lower in the aquarium where they will receive direct flow and light. If you do not want them growing on your your main rock structure, try creating a Zoanthid island by mounting several types of Zoanthids and Palythoa to one larger rock and placing it as an island in your sand bed.
Feeding: Although symbiotic algae called zooxanthellae hosted within them supply most of their nutritional requirements through photosynthesis, they do benefit from supplemental feedings of Oyster-Feast, Roti-Feast, cyclopeeze, & sometimes small bits of mini mysis. Target feeding gets the corals fed using less food while keeping your nitrates and phosphates lower.
Lighting & Flow Requirements: Orange Bam Bam Zoanthids require moderate water flow and low to moderate lighting (PAR 100-250) to maintain their color. T5's, Metal Halides, or LED's can all grow Zoanthids and Palyhtoa when the proper PAR levels are provided. We recommend a 14-20K color spectrum for best coloration.
Care Level: Easy
Lighting Requirements: Low to moderate (PAR 100-250)
Water Flow: Moderate
Aggressiveness: Semi-aggressive
Range: Indo-Pacific
Family: Zoanthidae
Water Conditions: 75-80° F; sg 1.024-1.026 (1.025 is ideal); pH 8.1-8.4 Ca 420-440 ppm, Alk 8-9.5 dKH, Mg 1260-1350, Nitrates <10ppm, Phosphates, < .10ppm
Water Chemistry: It is important that proper calcium (420-440 ppm), alkalinity (8-9.5 dkh - run it 7-8 if you are carbon dosing) , and magnesium levels (1260-1350 ppm) are maintained. Raising magnesium levels gradually up to 1400-1600 ppm can help to combat algae outbreaks, just keep CA and Alk in line as you raise the Mg. Nitrates should be below 10 ppm and phosphates should be below .10 ppm. We recommend doing a water change when Nitrate levels rise to 10 ppm. It is important to replace your phosphate media when phosphates rise to .10 ppm. Media Reactors make the most efficient use of your phosphate media by fluidizing it.
Dosing: Vivid Aquariums uses and recommends dosing pumps to automate the dosing of additives and keep your levels more constant. A dosing pump can alleviate the chore of manually dosing your aquarium with Ca, Alk, & Mg 2,3, or 4 times per week and will benefit your aquarium by keeping your levels constant through frequent small additions of Ca, Alk, & Mg. Our tanks all progressed when we switched from 3 manual dosings per week to 70 automatic dosings per week and we got a lot more work done.
Kentucky Blue Grass Zoanthids
$ 9.99 $ 19.99
How to Care for Kentucky Blue Grass Zoanthids
written by Dave Burr
Kentucky Blue Grass Zoanthids are easy to keep and are a great choice for the beginner. Zoanthids and Palythoa will grow and reproduce by budding.
Placement: Mount the Kentucky Blue Grass Zoanthids using IC gel glue, or putty, on an exposed rock lower in the aquarium where they will receive direct flow and light. If you do not want them growing on your your main rock structure, try creating a Zoanthid island by mounting several types of Zoanthids and Palythoa to one larger rock and placing it as an island in your sand bed.
Feeding: Although symbiotic algae called zooxanthellae hosted within them supply most of their nutritional requirements through photosynthesis, Kentucky Blue Grass Zoanthids do benefit from supplemental feedings of Oyster-Feast, Roti-Feast, cyclopeeze, & sometimes small bits of mini mysis. Target feeding gets the corals fed using less food while keeping your nitrates and phosphates lower.
Lighting & Flow Requirements: Kentucky Blue Grass Zoanthids require moderate water flow and low to moderate lighting (PAR 100-250) to maintain their color. T5's, Metal Halides, or LED's can all grow Zoanthids and Palythoa when the proper PAR levels are provided. We recommend a 14-20K color spectrum for best coloration.
Care Level: Easy
Lighting Requirements: Low to moderate (PAR 100-250)
Water Flow: Moderate
Aggressiveness: Semi-aggressive
Range: Indo-Pacific, Grown in California
Family: Zoanthidae
Water Conditions: 75-80° F; sg 1.024-1.026 (1.025 is ideal); pH 8.1-8.4 Ca 420-440 ppm, Alk 8-9.5 dKH, Mg 1260-1350, Nitrates <10ppm, Phosphates, < .10ppm
Water Chemistry: It is important that proper calcium (420-440 ppm), alkalinity (8-9.5 dkh - run it 7-8 if you are carbon dosing) , and magnesium levels (1260-1350 ppm) are maintained. Raising magnesium levels gradually up to 1400-1600 ppm can help to combat algae outbreaks, just keep CA and Alk in line as you raise the Mg. Nitrates should be below 10 ppm and phosphates should be below .10 ppm. We recommend doing a water change when Nitrate levels rise to 10 ppm. It is important to replace your phosphate media when phosphates rise to .10 ppm. Media Reactors make the most efficient use of your phosphate media by fluidizing it.
Dosing: Vivid Aquariums uses and recommends dosing pumps to automate the dosing of additives and keep your levels more constant. A dosing pump can alleviate the chore of manually dosing your aquarium with Ca, Alk, & Mg 2,3, or 4 times per week and will benefit your aquarium by keeping your levels constant through frequent small additions of Ca, Alk, & Mg. Our tanks all progressed when we switched from 3 manual dosings per week to 70 automatic dosings per week and we got a lot more work done.
Nassarius Snail
$ 2.99
How to Care for Nassarius Snail
written by Dave Burr
Nassarius snails are very useful in aquariums because they eat detritus, or waste, and keep the sand bed stirred. Nassarius snails do not eat much in the way of algae, but are an important part of any reef aquarium. They will also eat any excess food that the fish do not eat. Nassarius Snails stir the sand bed as they borrow through it foraging for food.
Feeding: Nassarius Snails are scavengers and will eat detritus and left over meaty foods such as mysis shrimp.
Behavior: We have witnessed Nassarius snails going after some clams on occasion. I recommend placing the clam on a rock or on a flat piece of putty that protects the opening at the bottom of the shell. This way the Nassarius Snails will have a harder time getting at the delicate underside of the clam. Another option if you have a clam is to forget the Nassarius Snail and use Sand Sifting Starfish instead as they will do a similar cleaning job and don't bother clams.
Care Level: Easy
Reef Compatible: Yes
Diet: Detrivore
Range: Indo-Pacific
Family: Nassariidae
Water Conditions: 75-80° F; sg 1.024-1.026 (1.025 is ideal); pH 8.1-8.4 Ca 420-440 ppm, Alk 8-9.5 dKH, Mg 1260-1350, Nitrates <10ppm, Phosphates, < .10ppm
Video
Phyto Feast
$ 9.99
What are phytoplankton and why are they important in a Reef System?
Phytoplankton are single cell microalgae that exist primarily in the water column. Microalgae is the beginning of the marine food chain and the primary source of essential nutrients for most reef filter feeders. Filter feeders that rely directly on phytoplankton include bivalves like clams, scallops, mussels, and oysters, as well as many corals, feather dusters, sponges, ascidians and zooplankton like rotifers and copepods.
It was once thought that most reef animals do not require microalgae, however, we have learned in recent years that nearly all reef animals that can filter feed do rely on plankton for an essential portion of their diet. This is even true for animals that can use zoozanthellae and photosynthesis for nourishment. With hindsight, this is obvious as zoozanthellae only contribute carbohydrates to the host animal, requiring the animal to look elsewhere for lipids, protein, vitamins and other nutrients.
In nature, filter feeders rely on a mix of diatoms, golden-brown, green, yellow-green, blue-green and red microalgae for a nutritionally complete diet. These life forms may look similar, but they are so ancient that they have incredible biological and nutritional diversity. Biologically speaking, there is vastly more difference between a green algae and a golden-brown flagellate than between dandelion and a fir tree.
Will microalgae add phosphate and nitrate to my system?
Yes - in very small amounts. There are no added phosphate and nitrates in Phyto-Feast, however these are critical components of all plants so it's impossible for any microalgae product not to contain some amount. If you have a refugium with some seaweed (Macro-Feast), the seaweed should help pull some of the P&N out of your system. If you experience elevated phosphates there are many products on the market to help lower them, such as Granular Ferric Oxide (GFO).
Phyto-Feast will add much less phosphate and nitrate than algae you grow at home. The algae in Phyto-Feast is separated from the growing media during harvesting, so the only P&N is the small amount actually in the cells, not the media.
There is also a very good article about this by Eric Borneman at reefkeeping.com.
Why is a complete Omega-3 fatty acid profile important?
Omega-3 fatty acids (EPA, DHA, and ARA) are considered essential fatty acids, which means that they are essential to animal health but cannot be manufactured by animals. For this reason, Omega-3 fatty acids must be obtained from food. Omega-3 fatty acids can be found in fish and certain plant oils, especially marine microalgae. Also known as polyunsaturated fatty acids (PUFAs), Omega-3 and omega-6 fatty acids play a crucial role in brain function as well as normal growth and development.
Different algae can be very different in their Omega-3 fatty acid content. Some, such as Chlorella, contain no EPA or DHA. So it is very important to feed your tank a mixture of carefully chosen algae species for complete and balanced nutrition. The algae in PhytoFeast were specially selected to provide high levels of EPA, DHA and ARA.
Will Phyto-Feast decompose and foul my system?
No. Phyto-Feast cells are intact and not broken so bacteria cannot quickly break them down and cause them to decompose.
Do I need to worry about bacteria or algae blooms if I use Phyto-Feast?
Typically No. Bacterial blooms are typically caused by significant amount of uneaten biomass remained in your system for several days due to overfeeding. Please adhere to the feeding instructions on the bottle to minimize the likelihood of this happening. When first using Phyto-Feast, we recommend you begin at the lowest recommended level and increase as your tank becomes accustomed to the new feed.
Your protein skimmer will likely remove any excess Phyto-Feast from your system.
Which of my animals will feed on Phyto-Feast products?
Some soft corals, sponges, tunicates, gorgonians, sea fans, Basket and Feather Stars, Clams, Mussels, Barnacles, Feather Dusters and Tridachnid clams.
Purple Panther Zoanthid Coral
$ 9.99 $ 24.99
How to Care for Purple Panther Zoanthid
written by Dave Burr
Purple Panther Zoanthids are easy to keep and are a great choice for the beginner. Zoanthids and Palythoa will grow and reproduce by budding.
Placement: Mount the Purple Panther Zoanthids using IC gel glue, or putty, on an exposed rock lower in the aquarium where they will receive direct flow and light. If you do not want them growing on your your main rock structure, try creating a Zoanthid island by mounting several types of Zoanthids and Palythoa to one larger rock and placing it as an island in your sand bed.
Feeding: Although symbiotic algae called zooxanthellae hosted within them supply most of their nutritional requirements through photosynthesis, Pink Zipper Zoanthids do benefit from supplemental feedings of Oyster-Feast, Roti-Feast, cyclopeeze, & sometimes small bits of mini mysis. Target feeding gets the corals fed using less food while keeping your nitrates and phosphates lower.
Lighting & Flow Requirements: Purple Panther Zoanthids require moderate water flow and low to moderate lighting (PAR 100-250) to maintain their color. T5's, Metal Halides, or LED's can all grow Zoanthids and Palythoa when the proper PAR levels are provided. We recommend a 14-20K color spectrum for best coloration.
Care Level: Easy
Lighting Requirements: Low to moderate (PAR 100-250)
Water Flow: Moderate
Aggressiveness: Semi-aggressive
Range: Indo-Pacific, Grown in California
Family: Zoanthidae
Water Conditions: 75-80° F; sg 1.024-1.026 (1.025 is ideal); pH 8.1-8.4 Ca 420-440 ppm, Alk 8-9.5 dKH, Mg 1260-1350, Nitrates <10ppm, Phosphates, < .10ppm
Water Chemistry: It is important that proper calcium (420-440 ppm), alkalinity (8-9.5 dkh - run it 7-8 if you are carbon dosing) , and magnesium levels (1260-1350 ppm) are maintained. Raising magnesium levels gradually up to 1400-1600 ppm can help to combat algae outbreaks, just keep CA and Alk in line as you raise the Mg. Nitrates should be below 10 ppm and phosphates should be below .10 ppm. We recommend doing a water change when Nitrate levels rise to 10 ppm. It is important to replace your phosphate media when phosphates rise to .10 ppm. Media Reactors make the most efficient use of your phosphate media by fluidizing it.
Dosing: Vivid Aquariums uses and recommends dosing pumps to automate the dosing of additives and keep your levels more constant. A dosing pump can alleviate the chore of manually dosing your aquarium with Ca, Alk, & Mg 2,3, or 4 times per week and will benefit your aquarium by keeping your levels constant through frequent small additions of Ca, Alk, & Mg. Our tanks all progressed when we switched from 3 manual dosings per week to 70 automatic dosings per week and we got a lot more work done.
Scarlet Reef Hermit Crab
Sold Out - $ 6.99 $ 6.99
How to Care for Scarlet Reef Hermit Crab
written by Dave Burr
The Scarlet Reef Hermit Crab is a superb algae eater, and will even eat filamentous algae and cyanobacteria. It is very useful in keeping reef aquariums clean and free of undesirable algae.
Growth: As the Scarlet Reef Hermit Crab grows they will need larger shells to take the place of the shell they outgrew. Place several old snail shells in the aquarium where the Scarlet Reef Hermit Crab can get to them when the time comes to move to a larger shell.
Feeding: If no algae is present in the aquarium you may supplement the Scarlet Reef Hermit Crabs' diet with live macro algae, dried seaweed (nori), and mysis shrimp.
Tip: Don't forget about your water parameters when combating algae blooms. Water chemistry is every bit as important as a good clean-up crew.
Care Level: Easy
Reef Compatible: Yes
Diet: Herbivore, Omnivore
Range: Indo-Pacific
Family: Diogenidae
Water Conditions: 75-80° F; sg 1.024-1.026 (1.025 is ideal); pH 8.1-8.4 Ca 420-440 ppm, Alk 8-9.5 dKH, Mg 1260-1350, Nitrates <10ppm, Phosphates < .10ppm
Water Chemistry: It is important that proper calcium (420-440 ppm), alkalinity (8-9.5 dkh - run it 7-8 if you are carbon dosing) , and magnesium levels (1260-1350 ppm) are maintained. Raising magnesium levels gradually up to 1400-1600 ppm can help to combat algae outbreaks, just keep CA and Alk in line as you raise the Mg. Nitrates should be below 10 ppm and phosphates should be below .10 ppm. We recommend doing a water change when Nitrate levels rise to 10 ppm. It is important to replace your phosphate media when phosphates rise to .10 ppm. Media Reactors make the most efficient use of your phosphate media by fluidizing it.
Dosing: Vivid Aquariums uses and recommends dosing pumps to automate the dosing of additives and keep your levels more constant. A dosing pump can alleviate the chore of manually dosing your aquarium with Ca, Alk, & Mg 2,3, or 4 times per week and will benefit your aquarium by keeping your levels constant through frequent small additions of Ca, Alk, & Mg. Our tanks all progressed when we switched from 3 manual dosings per week to 70 automatic dosings per week and we got a lot more work done.
Trochus Snail
Sold Out - $ 5.99
How to Care for Trochus Snail
written by Dave Burr
Trochus Snails are very effective at controlling the growth of undesirable algae in aquariums. They will eat algae off of the rocks and aquarium glass. They are one of the better snails when it comes to flipping themselves back over after a fall.
Feeding: If no algae is present in the aquarium you may supplement the Trochus Snails' diet with live macro algae or dried seaweed (nori).
Growth: Maintaining proper Ca, Alk, & Mg levels is important for growth of their shells.
Tip: Don't forget about your water parameters when combating algae blooms. Water chemistry is every bit as important as a good clean-up crew.
Care Level: Easy
Reef Compatible: Yes
Diet: Herbivore
Range: Indonesia
Family: Trochidae
Water Conditions: 75-80° F; sg 1.024-1.026 (1.025 is ideal); pH 8.1-8.4 Ca 420-440 ppm, Alk 8-9.5 dKH, Mg 1260-1350, Nitrates <10ppm, Phosphates < .10ppm
Water Chemistry: It is important that proper calcium (420-440 ppm), alkalinity (8-9.5 dkh - run it 7-8 if you are carbon dosing) , and magnesium levels (1260-1350 ppm) are maintained. Raising magnesium levels gradually up to 1400-1600 ppm can help to combat algae outbreaks, just keep CA and Alk in line as you raise the Mg. Nitrates should be below 10 ppm and phosphates should be below .10 ppm. We recommend doing a water change when Nitrate levels rise to 10 ppm. It is important to replace your phosphate media when phosphates rise to .10 ppm. Media Reactors make the most efficient use of your phosphate media by fluidizing it.
Dosing: Vivid Aquariums uses and recommends dosing pumps to automate the dosing of additives and keep your levels more constant. A dosing pump can alleviate the chore of manually dosing your aquarium with Ca, Alk, & Mg 2,3, or 4 times per week and will benefit your aquarium by keeping your levels constant through frequent small additions of Ca, Alk, & Mg. Our tanks all progressed when we switched from 3 manual dosings per week to 70 automatic dosings per week and we got a lot more work done.
Turbo Grazer Snail
$ 3.49
How to Care for Turbo Grazer Snail
written by Dave Burr
Turbo Snails are very effective at controlling the growth of undesirable algae in aquariums. They will eat algae off of the rocks and aquarium glass.
Feeding: If no algae is present in the aquarium you may supplement the Astrea Snails diet with live macro algae or dried seaweed (nori).
Growth: Maintaining proper Ca, Alk, & Mg levels is important for growth of their shells.
Don't forget about your water parameters when combating algae blooms. Water chemistry is every bit as important as a good clean-up crew.
Care Level: Easy
Reef Compatible: Yes
Diet: Herbivore
Range: Mexico
Family: Turbinidae
Water Conditions: 75-80° F; sg 1.024-1.026 (1.025 is ideal); pH 8.1-8.4 Ca 420-440 ppm, Alk 8-9.5 dKH, Mg 1260-1350, Nitrates <10ppm, Phosphates, < .10ppm
Water Chemistry:
It is important that proper calcium (420-440 ppm), alkalinity (8-9.5 dkh - run it 7-8 if you are carbon dosing) , and magnesium levels (1260-1350 ppm) are maintained. Raising magnesium levels gradually up to 1400-1600 ppm can help to combat algae outbreaks, just keep CA and Alk in line as you raise the Mg. Nitrates should be below 10 ppm and phosphates should be below .10 ppm. We recommend doing a water change when Nitrate levels rise to 10 ppm. It is important to replace your phosphate media when phosphates rise to .10 ppm. Media Reactors make the most efficient use of your phosphate media by fluidizing it.
Dosing: Vivid Aquariums uses and recommends dosing pumps to automate the dosing of additives and keep your levels more constant. A dosing pump can alleviate the chore of manually dosing your aquarium with Ca, Alk, & Mg 2,3, or 4 times per week and will benefit your aquarium by keeping your levels constant through frequent small additions of Ca, Alk, & Mg. Our tanks all progressed when we switched from 3 manual dosings per week to 70 automatic dosings per week and we got a lot more work done.