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omnivore
Bullseye Pistol Shrimp
Sold Out - $ 38.99
How to Care for Bullseye Pistol Shrimp
written by Dave Burr
The Bullseye Pistol Shrimp has a specialized claw that creates a loud clicking noise when it is open or closed. You can hear this noise from outside the aquarium if you listen closely. The Bullseye Pistol Shrimp uses this claw to ward off predators and knock over potential prey. It will scavenge the aquarium eating bits of algae and scraps of meaty food. Unlike most other Pistol Shrimp the Bullseye Pistol Shrimp does not create a symbiotic relationship with gobies. It prefers to live by itself.
Predators: Triggers, larger Hawkfish, Groupers, Lionfish, and large predatory Wrasses may eat Tiger Pistol Shrimp. They are best kept with reef safe fish.
Feeding: Offer the Bullseye Pistol Shrimp small pieces of meaty foods.
Growth: Maintaining proper pH, Ca, Alk, & Mg levels is important for shrimp. Providing additions of iodine will help the shrimp to molt and grow.
Acclimation: Take the time to do a drip acclimation with any shrimp as they do not tolerate rapid changes in water chemistry very well.
Care Level: EasyReef Compatible: Yes
Diet: Omnivore
Range: Indo-Pacific
Family: Alpheidae
Water Conditions: 75-80° F; sg 1.024-1.026 (1.025 is ideal); pH 8.1-8.4 Ca 420-440 ppm, Alk 8-9.5 dKH, Mg 1260-1350, Nitrates <10ppm, Phosphates < .10ppm
Water Chemistry: It is important that proper calcium (420-440 ppm), alkalinity (8-9.5 dkh - run it 7-8 if you are carbon dosing) , and magnesium levels (1260-1350 ppm) are maintained. Raising magnesium levels gradually up to 1400-1600 ppm can help to combat algae outbreaks, just keep CA and Alk in line as you raise the Mg. Nitrates should be below 10 ppm and phosphates should be below .10 ppm. We recommend doing a water change when Nitrate levels rise to 10 ppm. It is important to replace your phosphate media when phosphates rise to .10 ppm. Media Reactors make the most efficient use of your phosphate media by fluidizing it.
Dosing: Vivid Aquariums uses and recommends dosing pumps to automate the dosing of additives and keep your levels more constant. A dosing pump can alleviate the chore of manually dosing your aquarium with Ca, Alk, & Mg 2,3, or 4 times per week and will benefit your aquarium by keeping your levels constant through frequent small additions of Ca, Alk, & Mg. Our tanks all progressed when we switched from 3 manual dosings per week to 70 automatic dosings per week and we got a lot more work done.
Colored Dwarf Feather Duster
$ 14.99
How to Care for Colored Dwarf Feather Duster
written by Dave Burr
Colored Dwarf Feather Dusters come in a variety of colorations including beautiful pinks and yellows. Feather Dusters use their radioles, or "feathers" to filter plankton and small floating organisms from the water into their mouth located at the center of the crown. When disturbed, the Feather Duster can retract quickly into its tube for safety. If severely stressed it can discard its crown (feathers) completely and can grow a new crown.
Placement: When placing Feather Dusters in the aquarium you may bury them in the sand with the crown end of the tube protruding from the sand, or stick them in a hole in the rocks with the crown end facing outward. If they are retracted and you don't know which end is which lay them on the sand bed until they open and then place them into position.
Feeding: Offer the Colored Dwarf Feather Duster phytoplankton and marine snow.
Care Level: Easy
Reef Compatible: Yes
Diet: Omnivore
Range: Indo-Pacific
Family: Sabellidae
Water Conditions: 75-80° F; sg 1.024-1.026 (1.025 is ideal); pH 8.1-8.4 Ca 420-440 ppm, Alk 8-9.5 dKH, Mg 1260-1350, Nitrates <10ppm, Phosphates < .10ppm
Water Chemistry: It is important that proper calcium (420-440 ppm), alkalinity (8-9.5 dkh - run it 7-8 if you are carbon dosing) , and magnesium levels (1260-1350 ppm) are maintained. Raising magnesium levels gradually up to 1400-1600 ppm can help to combat algae outbreaks, just keep CA and Alk in line as you raise the Mg. Nitrates should be below 10 ppm and phosphates should be below .10 ppm. We recommend doing a water change when Nitrate levels rise to 10 ppm. It is important to replace your phosphate media when phosphates rise to .10 ppm. Media Reactors make the most efficient use of your phosphate media by fluidizing it.
Dosing: Vivid Aquariums uses and recommends dosing pumps to automate the dosing of additives and keep your levels more constant. A dosing pump can alleviate the chore of manually dosing your aquarium with Ca, Alk, & Mg 2,3, or 4 times per week and will benefit your aquarium by keeping your levels constant through frequent small additions of Ca, Alk, & Mg. Our tanks all progressed when we switched from 3 manual dosings per week to 70 automatic dosings per week and we got a lot more work done.
Emerald Crab
$ 9.99
How to Care for Emerald Crabs
written by Dave Burr
The Emerald Crab is a superb algae eater, and probably one of the very best at cleaning eating bubble algae. It is very useful in keeping reef aquariums clean.
Behavior: Large specimens can be harmful to small fish and invertebrates although this is less likely if there is sufficient algae for the crab to eat.
Growth: Maintaining proper Ca, Alk, & Mg levels is important for growth of their shells.
Feeding: If no algae is present in the aquarium you may supplement the Emerald Crab's diet with live macro algae, dried seaweed (nori), or mysis shrimp.
Tip: Don't forget about your water parameters when combating algae blooms. Water chemistry is every bit as important as a good clean-up crew.
Care Level: Easy
Reef Compatible: Yes
Diet: Omnivore, Herbivore
Range: Caribbean, Atlantic
Family: Majidae
Water Conditions: 75-80° F; sg 1.024-1.026 (1.025 is ideal); pH 8.1-8.4 Ca 420-440 ppm, Alk 8-9.5 dKH, Mg 1260-1350, Nitrates <10ppm, Phosphates < .10ppm
Water Chemistry: It is important that proper calcium (420-440 ppm), alkalinity (8-9.5 dkh - run it 7-8 if you are carbon dosing) , and magnesium levels (1260-1350 ppm) are maintained. Raising magnesium levels gradually up to 1400-1600 ppm can help to combat algae outbreaks, just keep CA and Alk in line as you raise the Mg. Nitrates should be below 10 ppm and phosphates should be below .10 ppm. We recommend doing a water change when Nitrate levels rise to 10 ppm. It is important to replace your phosphate media when phosphates rise to .10 ppm. Media Reactors make the most efficient use of your phosphate media by fluidizing it.
Dosing: Vivid Aquariums uses and recommends dosing pumps to automate the dosing of additives and keep your levels more constant. A dosing pump can alleviate the chore of manually dosing your aquarium with Ca, Alk, & Mg 2,3, or 4 times per week and will benefit your aquarium by keeping your levels constant through frequent small additions of Ca, Alk, & Mg. Our tanks all progressed when we switched from 3 manual dosings per week to 70 automatic dosings per week and we got a lot more work done.
Giant Feather Duster
$ 16.99
How to Care for Giant Feather Duster
written by Dave Burr
Giant Feather Dusters come in a variety of colorations ranging from tan and white to purple and tan. Feather Dusters use their radioles, or "feathers" to filter plankton and small floating organisms from the water into their mouth located at the center of the crown. When disturbed, the Feather Duster can retract quickly into its tube for safety. If severely stressed it can discard its crown (feathers) completely and can grow a new crown.
Placement: When placing Feather Dusters in the aquarium you may bury them in the sand with the crown end of the tube protruding from the sand, or stick them in a hole in the rocks with the crown end facing outward. If they are retracted and you don't know which end is which, lay them on the sand bed until they open and then place them into position.
Feeding: Offer the Giant Feather Duster phytoplankton and marine snow.
Care Level: Easy
Reef Compatible: Yes
Diet: Omnivore
Range: Indo-Pacific
Family: Sabellidae
Water Conditions: 75-80° F; sg 1.024-1.026 (1.025 is ideal); pH 8.1-8.4 Ca 420-440 ppm, Alk 8-9.5 dKH, Mg 1260-1350, Nitrates <10ppm, Phosphates < .10ppm
Water Chemistry: It is important that proper calcium (420-440 ppm), alkalinity (8-9.5 dkh - run it 7-8 if you are carbon dosing) , and magnesium levels (1260-1350 ppm) are maintained. Raising magnesium levels gradually up to 1400-1600 ppm can help to combat algae outbreaks, just keep CA and Alk in line as you raise the Mg. Nitrates should be below 10 ppm and phosphates should be below .10 ppm. We recommend doing a water change when Nitrate levels rise to 10 ppm. It is important to replace your phosphate media when phosphates rise to .10 ppm. Media Reactors make the most efficient use of your phosphate media by fluidizing it.
Dosing: Vivid Aquariums uses and recommends dosing pumps to automate the dosing of additives and keep your levels more constant. A dosing pump can alleviate the chore of manually dosing your aquarium with Ca, Alk, & Mg 2,3, or 4 times per week and will benefit your aquarium by keeping your levels constant through frequent small additions of Ca, Alk, & Mg. Our tanks all progressed when we switched from 3 manual dosings per week to 70 automatic dosings per week and we got a lot more work done.
Indonesian Sea Apple
Sold Out - $ 69.99
How to Care Indonesian Sea Apple
written by Dave Burr
The Sea Apple uses its oral tentacles to catch food that floats by. As each tentacle becomes full of food it draws its entire tentacle into its mouth. The Sea Apple should be target feed fed foods for filter feeders including marine snow, phytoplankton, and zooplankton. A colorful and bizarre addition to any reef aquarium, the Sea Apple can live for many years in the home aquarium.
Behavior: A Sea Apple will move around the aquarium until it finds an area with a good current where it can filter plenty of food. Once it finds a desirable spot it may stay there for many months.
Feeding: The Sea Apple should be target fed foods for filter feeders including marine snow, phytoplankton, and zooplankton. If not properly fed, the body of the Sea Apple will slowly begin to shrink. Try creating a storm in your aquarium using a turkey baster to blow jets of water into the dead spots of the aquarium to stir up the detritus. Then sit back and watch as it feeds on bits of detritus that float by.
CAUTION! When harassed, and upon death, the Sea Apple may release toxins that could kill fish in the aquarium. Do not house with butterflyfish, large angelfish, or other fish that are not safe with invertebrates. If you observe a fish picking at it, remove the fish or the Sea Apple immediately to a separate tank.
Tip: The Sea Apple can be harmed by the intakes of any pumps or powerheads in the aquarium, so make sure to protect all intakes to prevent the Sea Apple from being sucked in.
Vivid Aquariums cannot accept any responsibility for any losses that may occur should the Sea Apple poison the aquarium. Instances of Sea Apples causing death in reef aquariums are very rare but it can happen. It’s a gamble - you choose to roll the dice, or not.
Care Level: Expert Only - poisonous when stressed or after death
Reef Compatible: Yes
Diet: Filter Feeder
Range: Indo Pacific
Family: Holothuriidae
Water Conditions: 75-80° F; sg 1.024-1.026 (1.025 is ideal); pH 8.1-8.4 Ca 420-440 ppm, Alk 8-9.5 dKH, Mg 1260-1350, Nitrates <10ppm, Phosphates < .10ppm
Water Chemistry: It is important that proper calcium (420-440 ppm), alkalinity (8-9.5 dkh - run it 7-8 if you are carbon dosing) , and magnesium levels (1260-1350 ppm) are maintained. Raising magnesium levels gradually up to 1400-1600 ppm can help to combat algae outbreaks, just keep CA and Alk in line as you raise the Mg. Nitrates should be below 10 ppm and phosphates should be below .10 ppm. We recommend doing a water change when Nitrate levels rise to 10 ppm. It is important to replace your phosphate media when phosphates rise to .10 ppm. Media Reactors make the most efficient use of your phosphate media by fluidizing it.
Dosing: Vivid Aquariums uses and recommends dosing pumps to automate the dosing of additives and keep your levels more constant. A dosing pump can alleviate the chore of manually dosing your aquarium with Ca, Alk, & Mg 2,3, or 4 times per week and will benefit your aquarium by keeping your levels constant through frequent small additions of Ca, Alk, & Mg. Our tanks all progressed when we switched from 3 manual dosings per week to 70 automatic dosings per week and we got a lot more work done.
Video
Marble Starfish
Sold Out - $ 29.99
How to Care for Marble Starfish
written by Dave Burr
The Marble Starfish provides a burst of color to the reef as it forages over the rocks grazing on algae and eating bits of detritus. It is one of the easier starfish to keep and can do very well in established reef aquariums. More than one individual may be kept in larger aquariums of 80 gallons or more. Maintaining proper pH, Ca, Alk, & Mg levels is important for starfish.
Feeding: Provide the Marble Starfish with bits of meaty foods such as mysis shrimp, or chopped shrimp, or silversides. It will also scavenge the aquarium for bits of food missed by the fish.
Acclimation: Take the time to do a drip acclimation with any starfish as they do not tolerate rapid changes in water chemistry very well.
Care Level: Moderate
Reef Compatible: Yes
Diet: Omnivore
Range: Indo Pacific, Fiji, Indian Ocean
Family: Ophidiasteridae
Water Conditions: 75-80° F; sg 1.024-1.026 (1.025 is ideal); pH 8.1-8.4 Ca 420-440 ppm, Alk 8-9.5 dKH, Mg 1260-1350, Nitrates <10ppm, Phosphates < .10ppm
Water Chemistry: It is important that proper calcium (420-440 ppm), alkalinity (8-9.5 dkh - run it 7-8 if you are carbon dosing) , and magnesium levels (1260-1350 ppm) are maintained. Raising magnesium levels gradually up to 1400-1600 ppm can help to combat algae outbreaks, just keep CA and Alk in line as you raise the Mg. Nitrates should be below 10 ppm and phosphates should be below .10 ppm. We recommend doing a water change when Nitrate levels rise to 10 ppm. It is important to replace your phosphate media when phosphates rise to .10 ppm. Media Reactors make the most efficient use of your phosphate media by fluidizing it.
Dosing: Vivid Aquariums uses and recommends dosing pumps to automate the dosing of additives and keep your levels more constant. A dosing pump can alleviate the chore of manually dosing your aquarium with Ca, Alk, & Mg 2,3, or 4 times per week and will benefit your aquarium by keeping your levels constant through frequent small additions of Ca, Alk, & Mg. Our tanks all progressed when we switched from 3 manual dosings per week to 70 automatic dosings per week and we got a lot more work done.
ORA Black & White Ocellaris Clownfish - Captive Bred
$ 44.99
How to Care for Black & White Ocellaris Clownfish
written by Dave Burr
Behavior: The Black & White Ocellaris Clownfish that we sell are aqua-cultured making them a hardy aquarium fish that is great for beginners. Misbarred Black & White Ocellaris Clownfish are a unique variation - their middle stripe is only partial.
As with most clownfish, the Black & White Ocellaris Clownfish is best kept singly unless a pair is introduced together. It may attack other clownfishes and nip at passive tank-mates who wander near its host anemone or territory. Generally, it is a great fish for the reef aquarium and spends much of its time nestled peacefully in its anemone. If you plan to keep other clownfish, it is best to do it in a larger aquarium of 100 gallons or more and provide each clownfish, or pair of clownfish, with their own anemone. That way each fish has a comfortable home and quarrels will be reduced. Adding all of the clownfish at the same time will also help to reduce territorial disputes.
Symbiotic Relationship: The Black & White Ocellaris Clownfish does not require a host anemone for survival; however, it is a real treat for any hobbyist to observe the symbiotic relationship between the clownfish and its host anemone. The anemone provides a safe haven for the clownfish because its tentacles will inflict a painful sting on all but other clownfish. The clownfish, in return, chases off fish that threaten to pick at the anemone and brings it scraps of food. The Ocellaris Clownfish prefers the Long Tentacle Anemone, Rose Bubble Tip Anemone, or Bubble Tip Anemone.
Feeding: Offer the Black & White Ocellaris Clownfish mysis shrimp and frozen herbivore preparations 4-5 times per week. Their diet consists mostly of meaty foods, however they will accept some algae based foods as well. Soaking all fish food with vitamins will help keep your fish healthier and make them less susceptible to disease. We recommend soaking food in garlic as well when adding new fish and whenever your notice ich or other disease in the aquarium. Garlic will help repel external parasites and will boost the fishes immunity.
Feeding Tips: Remember to feed slowly. Leftover food will cause nitrates and phosphates to rise. If you see food falling to the sand bed and into the rocks, you should feed slower and give the fish a chance to eat before adding a little more. Using a turkey baster allows you to target food to different fish. For example you can feed the aggressive fish on one side of the tank and then squirt a little bit on the other side for the less aggressive fish. This way all the fish get a chance to eat enough.
Maximum Length: 3.5"
Care Level: Easy
Family: Pomacentridae
Reef Compatibility: Excellent
Minimum Aquarium Size: 20 gal.
Range: Australia, Aqua-cultured
Diet: Omnivore
Water Conditions: 75-80° F; sg 1.024-1.026 (1.025 is ideal); pH 8.1-8.4 Ca 420-440 ppm, Alk 8-9.5 dKH, Mg 1260-1350, Nitrates <10ppm, Phosphates, < .10ppm
Water Chemistry: Maintaining Ammonia at 0 ppm, Nitrites at 0 ppm, and Nitrates below 10ppm will help to keep your Black & White Ocellaris Clownfish happy and healthy. We recommend doing a water change soon after Nitrates rise above 10 ppm. Maintaining proper calcium (420-440 ppm), alkalinity (8-9.5 dkh - run it 7-8 if you are carbon dosing) , and magnesium levels (1260-1350 ppm) will help to keep pH stable in the 8.1-8.4 range. We recommend a specific gravity of 1.024-1.026 with 1.025 being ideal for fish. Temperature should remain stable as well and should stay within a 2 degree range.
Video
ORA Ocellaris Clownfish - Captive Bred
$ 19.99
How to Care for Ocellaris Clownfish
written by Dave Burr
Behavior: The Ocellaris Clownfish is often confused with the Percula Clownfish, which has a similar orange and white color scheme. The easiest way to tell them apart is to remember that the Percula Clownfish has thick bands of black between his white stripes while the Ocellaris Clownfish has only a thin black line along the edge of its stripes.
As with most clownfish, the Ocellaris Clownfish is best kept singly unless a pair is introduced together. It may attack other clownfishes and nip at passive tank-mates who wander near its host anemone or territory. Generally, it is a great fish for the reef aquarium and spends much of its time nestled peacefully in its anemone. If you plan to keep other clownfish, it is best to do it in a larger aquarium of 100 gallons or more and provide each clownfish, or pair of clownfish, with their own anemone. That way each fish has a comfortable home and quarrels will be reduced. Adding all of the clownfish at the same time will also help to reduce territorial disputes.
Symbiotic Relationship: The Ocellaris Clownfish does not require a host anemone for survival; however it is a real treat for any hobbyist to observe the symbiotic relationship between the clownfish and its host anemone. The anemone provides a safe haven for the clownfish because its tentacles will inflict a painful sting on all but other clownfish. The clownfish, in return, chases off fish that threaten to pick at the anemone and brings it scraps of food. The Ocellaris Clownfish prefers the Long Tentacle Anemone, Rose Bubble Tip Anemone, or Bubble Tip Anemone.
Feeding: Offer the Ocellaris Clownfish mysis shrimp and frozen herbivore preparations 4-5 times per week. Their diet consists mostly of meaty foods however they will accept some algae based foods as well. Soaking all fish food with vitamins will help keep your fish healthier and make them less susceptible to disease. We recommend soaking food in garlic as well when adding new fish and whenever your notice ich or other disease in the aquarium. Garlic will help repel external parasites and will boost the fishes immunity.
Feeding Tips: Remember to feed slowly. Leftover food will cause nitrates and phosphates to rise. If you see food falling to the sand bed and into the rocks, you should feed slower and give the fish a chance to eat before adding a little more. Using a turkey baster allows you to target food to different fish. For example you can feed the aggressive fish on one side of the tank and then squirt a little bit on the other side for the less aggressive fish. This way all the fish get a chance to eat enough.
Maximum Length: 3.5"
Care Level: Easy
Family: Pomacentridae
Reef Compatibility: Excellent
Minimum Aquarium Size: 20 gal.
Range: Indo Pacific, Australia, Indian Ocean
Diet: Omnivore
Water Conditions: 75-80° F; sg 1.024-1.026 (1.025 is ideal); pH 8.1-8.4 Ca 420-440 ppm, Alk 8-9.5 dKH, Mg 1260-1350, Nitrates <10ppm, Phosphates, < .10ppm
Water Chemistry: Maintaining Ammonia at 0 ppm, Nitrites at 0 ppm, and Nitrates below 10ppm will help to keep your Ocellaris Clownfish happy and healthy. We recommend doing a water change soon after Nitrates rise above 10 ppm. Maintaining proper calcium (420-440 ppm), alkalinity (8-9.5 dkh - run it 7-8 if you are carbon dosing) , and magnesium levels (1260-1350 ppm) will help to keep pH stable in the 8.1-8.4 range. We recommend a specific gravity of 1.024-1.026 with 1.025 being ideal for fish. Temperature should remain stable as well and should stay within a 2 degree range.
Video
ORA Percula Clownfish - Captive Bred
$ 24.99
How to Care for Percula Clownfish
written by Dave Burr
Behavior: The Percula Clownfish is often confused with the Ocellaris Clownfish which has a similar orange and white color scheme. The easiest way to tell them apart is to remember that the Percula Clownfish has thick bands of black between his white stripes while the Ocellaris Clownfish has only a thin black line along the edge of its stripes.
As with most clownfish, the Percula Clownfish is best kept singly unless a pair is introduced together. It may attack other clownfishes and nip at passive tank-mates who wander near its host anemone or territory. Generally, it is a great fish for the reef aquarium and spends much of its time nestled peacefully in its anemone. If you plan to keep other clownfish, it is best to do it in a larger aquarium of 100 gallons or more and provide each clownfish, or pair of clownfish, with their own anemone. That way each fish has a comfortable home and quarrels will be reduced. Adding all of the clownfish at the same time will also help to reduce territorial disputes.
Symbiotic Relationship: The Percula Clownfish does not require a host anemone for survival; however it is a real treat for any hobbyist to observe the symbiotic relationship between the clownfish and its host anemone. The anemone provides a safe haven for the clownfish because its tentacles will inflict a painful sting on all but other clownfish. The clownfish, in return, chases off fish that threaten to pick at the anemone and brings it scraps of food. The Percula Clownfish prefers the Long Tentacle Anemone, Rose Bubble Tip Anemone, or Bubble Tip Anemone.
Feeding: Offer the Percula Clownfish mysis shrimp and frozen herbivore preparations 4-5 times per week. Their diet consists mostly of meaty foods, however they will accept some algae based foods as well. Soaking all fish food with vitamins will help keep your fish healthier and make them less susceptible to disease. We recommend soaking food in garlic as well when adding new fish and whenever your notice ich or other disease in the aquarium. Garlic will help repel external parasites and will boost the fishes immunity.
Feeding Tips: Remember to feed slowly. Leftover food will cause nitrates and phosphates to rise. If you see food falling to the sand bed and into the rocks, you should feed slower and give the fish a chance to eat before adding a little more. Using a turkey baster allows you to target food to different fish. For example you can feed the aggressive fish on one side of the tank and then squirt a little bit on the other side for the less aggressive fish. This way all the fish get a chance to eat enough.
Maximum Length: 3"
Care Level: Easy
Family: Pomacentridae
Reef Compatibility: Excellent
Minimum Aquarium Size: 30 gal.
Range: Indo Pacific, Australia, Solomon Islands
Diet: Omnivore
Water Conditions: 75-80° F; sg 1.024-1.026 (1.025 is ideal); pH 8.1-8.4 Ca 420-440 ppm, Alk 8-9.5 dKH, Mg 1260-1350, Nitrates <10ppm, Phosphates, < .10ppm
Water Chemistry: Maintaining Ammonia at 0 ppm, Nitrites at 0 ppm, and Nitrates below 10ppm will help to keep your Percula Clownfish happy and healthy. We recommend doing a water change soon after Nitrates rise above 10 ppm. Maintaining proper calcium (420-440 ppm), alkalinity (8-9.5 dkh - run it 7-8 if you are carbon dosing) , and magnesium levels (1260-1350 ppm) will help to keep pH stable in the 8.1-8.4 range. We recommend a specific gravity of 1.024-1.026 with 1.025 being ideal for fish. Temperature should remain stable as well and should stay within a 2 degree range.
Video
ORA Pink Skunk Clownfish - Captive Bred
Sold Out - $ 19.99
How to Care for Pink Skunk Clownfish
written by Dave Burr
Behavior: As with most clownfish, the Pink Skunk Clownfish is best kept singly unless a pair is introduced together. It may attack other clownfishes and nip at passive tank-mates who wander near its host anemone or territory. Generally, it is a great fish for the reef aquarium and spends much of its time nestled peacefully in its anemone. If you plan to keep other clownfish, it is best to do it in a larger aquarium of 100 gallons or more and provide each clownfish, or pair of clownfish, with their own anemone. That way each fish has a comfortable home and quarrels will be reduced. Adding all of the clownfish at the same time will also help to reduce territorial disputes.
Symbiotic Relationship: The Pink Skunk Clownfish does not require a host anemone for survival; however it is a real treat for any hobbyist to observe the symbiotic relationship between the clownfish and its host anemone. The anemone provides a safe haven for the clownfish because its tentacles will inflict a painful sting on all but other clownfish. The clownfish, in return, chases off fish that threaten to pick at the anemone and brings it scraps of food. The Pink Skunk Clownfish prefers the Carpet Anemone, Rose Bubble Tip Anemone, or Bubble Tip Anemone.
Feeding: Offer the Pink Skunk Clownfish mysis shrimp and frozen herbivore preparations 4-5 times per week. Their diet consists mostly of meaty foods, however they will accept some algae based foods as well. Soaking all fish food with vitamins will help keep your fish healthier and make them less susceptible to disease. We recommend soaking food in garlic as well when adding new fish and whenever your notice ich or other disease in the aquarium. Garlic will help repel external parasites and will boost the fishes immunity.
Feeding Tips: Remember to feed slowly. Leftover food will cause nitrates and phosphates to rise. If you see food falling to the sand bed and into the rocks, you should feed slower and give the fish a chance to eat before adding a little more. Using a turkey baster allows you to target food to different fish. For example you can feed the aggressive fish on one side of the tank and then squirt a little bit on the other side for the less aggressive fish. This way all the fish get a chance to eat enough.
Maximum Length: 4"
Care Level: Easy
Family: Pomacentridae
Reef Compatibility: Excellent
Minimum Aquarium Size: 30 gal.
Range: Fiji, Indo Pacific, Australia
Diet: Omnivore
Water Conditions: 75-80° F; sg 1.024-1.026 (1.025 is ideal); pH 8.1-8.4 Ca 420-440 ppm, Alk 8-9.5 dKH, Mg 1260-1350, Nitrates <10ppm, Phosphates, < .10ppm
Water Chemistry: Maintaining Ammonia at 0 ppm, Nitrites at 0 ppm, and Nitrates below 10ppm will help to keep your Pink Skunk Clownfish happy and healthy. We recommend doing a water change soon after Nitrates rise above 10 ppm. Maintaining proper calcium (420-440 ppm), alkalinity (8-9.5 dkh - run it 7-8 if you are carbon dosing) , and magnesium levels (1260-1350 ppm) will help to keep pH stable in the 8.1-8.4 range. We recommend a specific gravity of 1.024-1.026 with 1.025 being ideal for fish. Temperature should remain stable as well and should stay within a 2 degree range.
Pink & Black Sea Cucumber
Sold Out - $ 44.99
How to Care for Pink & Black Sea Cucumber
written by Dave Burr
What it lacks in beauty it makes up for in cleaning power. The Pink & Black Sea Cucumber is a great “housekeeper” for the reef aquarium. It eats detritus, diatoms, and scraps of meaty foods from the sand that passes through its body. One Pink & Black Sea Cucumber is sufficient for a 60 gallon aquarium.
Feeding: Provide the Pink & Black Sea Cucumber with plenty of sand bed to sift through. It will scavenge scraps of meaty foods left over by fish.
Tip: Do not keep with aggressive fishes that are not safe with invertebrates. Also make sure to protect cucumber from being sucked into an overflow box or pump intake. The Pink & Black Sea Cucumber does have the ability to release toxins into the aquarium that could poison fish, although it is extremely unlikely.
Acclimation: Maintaining proper pH, Ca, Alk, & Mg levels is important for cucumbers. Take the time to do a drip acclimation with any cucumber as they do not tolerate rapid changes in water chemistry very well.
Care Level: Easy
Reef Compatible: Yes
Diet: Omnivore
Range: Indo-Pacific
Family: Holothuridae
Water Conditions: 75-80° F; sg 1.024-1.026 (1.025 is ideal); pH 8.1-8.4 Ca 420-440 ppm, Alk 8-9.5 dKH, Mg 1260-1350, Nitrates <10ppm, Phosphates < .10ppm
Water Chemistry: It is important that proper calcium (420-440 ppm), alkalinity (8-9.5 dkh - run it 7-8 if you are carbon dosing) , and magnesium levels (1260-1350 ppm) are maintained. Raising magnesium levels gradually up to 1400-1600 ppm can help to combat algae outbreaks, just keep CA and Alk in line as you raise the Mg. Nitrates should be below 10 ppm and phosphates should be below .10 ppm. We recommend doing a water change when Nitrate levels rise to 10 ppm. It is important to replace your phosphate media when phosphates rise to .10 ppm. Media Reactors make the most efficient use of your phosphate media by fluidizing it.
Dosing: Vivid Aquariums uses and recommends dosing pumps to automate the dosing of additives and keep your levels more constant. A dosing pump can alleviate the chore of manually dosing your aquarium with Ca, Alk, & Mg 2,3, or 4 times per week and will benefit your aquarium by keeping your levels constant through frequent small additions of Ca, Alk, & Mg. Our tanks all progressed when we switched from 3 manual dosings per week to 70 automatic dosings per week and we got a lot more work done.
Purple Lobster
Sold Out - $ 29.99
How to Care for Purple Lobster
written by Dave Burr
Provide the Purple Lobster with a deep sand bed and numerous rocks where it can construct its burrow. A hiding place is especially important after molting when the lobster must wait for its new exoskeleton to harden. Constructing a cave near the front of the aquarium will improve your chances of seeing the lobster during the day as it will spend most of the daylight hours hiding in its burrow.
Behavior: Purple Lobsters will not bother corals, but may harm small passive reef fishes and some smaller invertebrates. They are highly territorial and are best kept singly. Two or more will often fight unless they are a mated pair. They grow to a maximum size of five inches in the wild, but should not grow as large in an aquarium.
Feeding: The Purple Lobster is a omnivore and a great scavenger. It will help to keep your aquarium clean by eating excess food left over by the fish.
Molting: Maintaining proper pH, Ca, Alk, & Mg levels is important for lobsters. Providing additions of iodine will help the lobster to molt and grow.
Care Level: Easy
Reef Compatible: Add with caution
Diet: Omnivore
Range: Indo-Pacific
Family: Nephropidae
Water Conditions: 75-80° F; sg 1.024-1.026 (1.025 is ideal); pH 8.1-8.4 Ca 420-440 ppm, Alk 8-9.5 dKH, Mg 1260-1350, Nitrates <10ppm, Phosphates < .10ppm
Water Chemistry: It is important that proper calcium (420-440 ppm), alkalinity (8-9.5 dkh - run it 7-8 if you are carbon dosing) , and magnesium levels (1260-1350 ppm) are maintained. Raising magnesium levels gradually up to 1400-1600 ppm can help to combat algae outbreaks, just keep CA and Alk in line as you raise the Mg. Nitrates should be below 10 ppm and phosphates should be below .10 ppm. We recommend doing a water change when Nitrate levels rise to 10 ppm. It is important to replace your phosphate media when phosphates rise to .10 ppm. Media Reactors make the most efficient use of your phosphate media by fluidizing it.
Dosing: Vivid Aquariums uses and recommends dosing pumps to automate the dosing of additives and keep your levels more constant. A dosing pump can alleviate the chore of manually dosing your aquarium with Ca, Alk, & Mg 2,3, or 4 times per week and will benefit your aquarium by keeping your levels constant through frequent small additions of Ca, Alk, & Mg. Our tanks all progressed when we switched from 3 manual dosings per week to 70 automatic dosings per week and we got a lot more work done.
Red Fromia Starfish
Sold Out - $ 23.99
How to Care for Red Fromia Starfish
written by Dave Burr
The Red Fromia Starfish provides a burst of color to the reef as it forages over the rocks grazing on algae and eating bits of detritus. More than one individual may be kept in larger aquariums of 80 gallons or more. Maintaining proper pH, Ca, Alk, & Mg levels is important for starfish.
Feeding: Provide the Red Fromia Starfish with bits of meaty foods such as mysis shrimp, or chopped shrimp, or silversides. It will also scavenge the aquarium for bits of food missed by the fish.
Acclimation: Take the time to do a drip acclimation with any starfish as they do not tolerate rapid changes in water chemistry very well.
Care Level: Moderate
Reef Compatible: Yes
Diet: Omnivore
Range: Indo Pacific, Fiji, Sri Lanka
Family: Ophidiasteridae
Water Conditions: 75-80° F; sg 1.024-1.026 (1.025 is ideal); pH 8.1-8.4 Ca 420-440 ppm, Alk 8-9.5 dKH, Mg 1260-1350, Nitrates <10ppm, Phosphates < .10ppm
Water Chemistry: It is important that proper calcium (420-440 ppm), alkalinity (8-9.5 dkh - run it 7-8 if you are carbon dosing) , and magnesium levels (1260-1350 ppm) are maintained. Raising magnesium levels gradually up to 1400-1600 ppm can help to combat algae outbreaks, just keep CA and Alk in line as you raise the Mg. Nitrates should be below 10 ppm and phosphates should be below .10 ppm. We recommend doing a water change when Nitrate levels rise to 10 ppm. It is important to replace your phosphate media when phosphates rise to .10 ppm. Media Reactors make the most efficient use of your phosphate media by fluidizing it.
Dosing: Vivid Aquariums uses and recommends dosing pumps to automate the dosing of additives and keep your levels more constant. A dosing pump can alleviate the chore of manually dosing your aquarium with Ca, Alk, & Mg 2,3, or 4 times per week and will benefit your aquarium by keeping your levels constant through frequent small additions of Ca, Alk, & Mg. Our tanks all progressed when we switched from 3 manual dosings per week to 70 automatic dosings per week and we got a lot more work done.
Sally Lightfoot Crab
$ 18.99
How to Care for Sally Lightfoot Crab
written by Dave Burr
The Sally Lightfoot Crab is a superb algae eater. It is very useful in keeping reef aquariums clean and free of undesirable algae.
Behavior: Large specimens can be harmful to small fish and invertebrates although this is less likely if there is sufficient algae for the crab to eat.
Feeding: If no algae is present in the aquarium you may supplement the Sally Lightfoot Crab's diet with live macro algae, dried seaweed (nori), or mysis shrimp.
Growth: Maintaining proper Ca, Alk, & Mg levels is important for growth of their shells.
Tip: Don't forget about your water parameters when combating algae blooms. Water chemistry is every bit as important as a good clean-up crew.
Care Level: Easy
Reef Compatible: Yes
Diet: Omnivore, Herbivore
Range: Caribbean, Atlantic
Family: Grapsidae
Water Conditions: 75-80° F; sg 1.024-1.026 (1.025 is ideal); pH 8.1-8.4 Ca 420-440 ppm, Alk 8-9.5 dKH, Mg 1260-1350, Nitrates <10ppm, Phosphates < .10ppm
Water Chemistry: It is important that proper calcium (420-440 ppm), alkalinity (8-9.5 dkh - run it 7-8 if you are carbon dosing) , and magnesium levels (1260-1350 ppm) are maintained. Raising magnesium levels gradually up to 1400-1600 ppm can help to combat algae outbreaks, just keep CA and Alk in line as you raise the Mg. Nitrates should be below 10 ppm and phosphates should be below .10 ppm. We recommend doing a water change when Nitrate levels rise to 10 ppm. It is important to replace your phosphate media when phosphates rise to .10 ppm. Media Reactors make the most efficient use of your phosphate media by fluidizing it.
Dosing: Vivid Aquariums uses and recommends dosing pumps to automate the dosing of additives and keep your levels more constant. A dosing pump can alleviate the chore of manually dosing your aquarium with Ca, Alk, & Mg 2,3, or 4 times per week and will benefit your aquarium by keeping your levels constant through frequent small additions of Ca, Alk, & Mg. Our tanks all progressed when we switched from 3 manual dosings per week to 70 automatic dosings per week and we got a lot more work done.
Sand Sifting Starfish
$ 19.99
How to Care for Sand Sifting Starfish
written by Dave Burr
An important team member of any "Clean Up Crew" the Sand Sifting Starfish will sift through the sand bed eating detritus and leftover scraps of food. Chances are you will not see this starfish often, as it will burrow into the sand to hide or search for food. Nevertheless it is a good choice for any reef aquarium, and will help create a balanced ecosystem and keep your sand looking good.
Feeding: Provide the Sand Sifting Starfish with bits of meaty foods such as mysis shrimp, or chopped shrimp, or silversides. It will also scavenge the aquarium for bits of food missed by the fish.
Acclimation: Maintaining proper pH, Ca, Alk, & Mg levels is important for starfish. Take the time to do a drip acclimation with any starfish as they do not tolerate rapid changes in water chemistry very well.
Care Level: Easy
Reef Compatible: Yes
Diet: Omnivore
Range: Solomon Islands, Fiji
Family: Astropectinidae
Water Conditions: 75-80° F; sg 1.024-1.026 (1.025 is ideal); pH 8.1-8.4 Ca 420-440 ppm, Alk 8-9.5 dKH, Mg 1260-1350, Nitrates <10ppm, Phosphates < .10ppm
Water Chemistry: It is important that proper calcium (420-440 ppm), alkalinity (8-9.5 dkh - run it 7-8 if you are carbon dosing) , and magnesium levels (1260-1350 ppm) are maintained. Raising magnesium levels gradually up to 1400-1600 ppm can help to combat algae outbreaks, just keep CA and Alk in line as you raise the Mg. Nitrates should be below 10 ppm and phosphates should be below .10 ppm. We recommend doing a water change when Nitrate levels rise to 10 ppm. It is important to replace your phosphate media when phosphates rise to .10 ppm. Media Reactors make the most efficient use of your phosphate media by fluidizing it.
Dosing: Vivid Aquariums uses and recommends dosing pumps to automate the dosing of additives and keep your levels more constant. A dosing pump can alleviate the chore of manually dosing your aquarium with Ca, Alk, & Mg 2,3, or 4 times per week and will benefit your aquarium by keeping your levels constant through frequent small additions of Ca, Alk, & Mg. Our tanks all progressed when we switched from 3 manual dosings per week to 70 automatic dosings per week and we got a lot more work done.